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Robs Monster S2K build

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Old 05-16-2011, 12:45 PM
  #421  
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No no, it looks fine, just make sure the front and rear brake lines are the right way round in the bias valve, otherwise you get some interesting braking performance! Made this mistake in the Mini we are rebuilding!
Old 05-16-2011, 12:47 PM
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How did you resolve that?
Old 05-16-2011, 01:43 PM
  #423  

 
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Originally Posted by cyber gook
Cheers! One more shot of the brake set up from under the car.
I don't take the time to post very often these days, but this is wrong. Just happened to be here and see it, so here is a quick(ish) post.

Look at the diagram showing the internals of the ABS unit - if you follow the NO (normally open) valves you can see the ABS unit acts as a T splitting each half of the master cylinder input to one front and one rear caliper. After leaving the ABS unit the rear half goes through the limiting valve (called PCV on the diagram). If you have the Honda workshop manual it's 19-42.

What you should have:
Master cylinder -> T -> nearside front caliper
-> Half of prop valve -> offside rear caliper
Master cylinder -> T -> offside front caliper
-> Half of prop valve -> nearside rear caliper


The proportioning valve works by reducing the rate of pressure increase after a preset pressure has been reached - so once you've so much pedal pressure, only a certain amount of additional pedal pressure gets through the valve. Usually a round a 3rd. The pressure point being known as the knuckle point.

That allows the pressure to build quickly to the rears during initial braking - this is good as the weight hasn't transfered to the front. As you increase the braking you pass the knuckle point and the rears start to receive less of the additional pedal effort as the weight transfers forward along with the grip.

As you have it plumbed in the picture with front and rear T-eed off after the proportioning valve you're limiting the pressure to the rears... and the FRONTS.

Scary springs to mind....

-Brian.
Old 05-16-2011, 01:50 PM
  #424  
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Ok brilliant. So I've made a right tit of things! Thanks for your post Brian. I did think that this may be an issue. it makes alot of sence now. And I feel very, very stupid! I will talk to Ben at Hel about this in the morning ;S
Old 05-16-2011, 02:24 PM
  #425  
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Just did a quick sketch. Is this what you mean Brain?



Seems to make sense if so...I owe you a massive favour or a pint if so!
Old 05-16-2011, 10:29 PM
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Shouldnt be too much drama Rob, there looks enough slack in the fronts to move one to the back and vice versa - Speak to you later today, easy fix. Lines look awesome by the way!
Old 05-17-2011, 01:19 AM
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Originally Posted by cyber gook
Just did a quick sketch. Is this what you mean Brian?

Seems to make sense if so...I owe you a massive favour or a pint if so!
The placement is correct but I can't tell you if you have the connection correct on the proportioning valve. Best would be to get an owner of a standard car to verify the lines to it. I wouldn't want to be risk that you've got the input/output connections the wrong way round.

I've never paid that much attention to the connections on the standard proportioning valve as it's not a component I'd reuse.

-Brian.
Old 05-18-2011, 04:31 AM
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What would you use? Adjustable bias? If so...this sort of set up with the lines the way I have done them would surely work right?
Old 05-18-2011, 08:01 AM
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If you like i'll pop my car in the air tonight and have a fidget around to get you source, directions and so on with a stock setup. I'll take a pic with an SLR so it's clear.
Old 05-18-2011, 01:47 PM
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That would be a great help mate. Im not sure its going to be as easy as just taking a shot of the prop valve from under the car though. If you can trace the lines back to the abs block though...

I have got loads of progress pics of my build, but never too too much notice of that, as I knew I was scrapping it Dumb ass I know...

Any light you could shed I would appreciate


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