S2000 Winter maintenance
08-17-2006, 11:59 PM
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S2000 Winter maintenance
As my car will be 7 years old in a few months and will be running about 83k miles by then, I'm considering taking it off the road this winter to perform some maintenance.
My dad has a decent sized workshop so I will be trying to negotiate some space in there to perform the work.
I was thinking about getting all the suspension arms off (or attempting to!) getting them shotblasted and powder coated, and doing a full waxoyl of the bottom of the car. I'll also have a look at the suspension bushes and see whether it's worth repair/replacing with powerflex
Bearing in mind that I don't know one end of a spanner from the other, is this a farily easy job to do, or should I book in at a proper garage to get this done.
Anything else I should be looking to do?
My dad has a decent sized workshop so I will be trying to negotiate some space in there to perform the work.
I was thinking about getting all the suspension arms off (or attempting to!) getting them shotblasted and powder coated, and doing a full waxoyl of the bottom of the car. I'll also have a look at the suspension bushes and see whether it's worth repair/replacing with powerflex
Bearing in mind that I don't know one end of a spanner from the other, is this a farily easy job to do, or should I book in at a proper garage to get this done.
Anything else I should be looking to do?
08-18-2006, 12:53 AM
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No tips or hints yet.
My dad rebuilds old cars/tractors/wagons etc, so I'm hoping that once it's in his garage, he may feel the urge to do the work for me
My dad rebuilds old cars/tractors/wagons etc, so I'm hoping that once it's in his garage, he may feel the urge to do the work for me
Mine too 
08-18-2006, 10:53 AM
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If you get to that stage you may as well take off your front and rear anti roll bars and get them painted at the same time as they will also be corroded/rusty.
Inspect the drop links that attach the anti roll bars to the lower wish bones.
Remove the dampers/springs (easy once the wish bones have been taken off) inspect them, also it will give you more room/space to put whatever body protection you are going to appy.
Inspect the drop links that attach the anti roll bars to the lower wish bones.
Remove the dampers/springs (easy once the wish bones have been taken off) inspect them, also it will give you more room/space to put whatever body protection you are going to appy.
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08-19-2006, 02:58 AM
#9
A tip for stopping existing rust dead in any seams.
I used it on a tailgate which was starting to rust through from the inside and it never developed any further.
Buy a syringe from Boots and fill it with nice thick gearbox oil and just trickle it along seams or with a bit of rubber tubing on the end inject it into enclosed spaces.
A small amount will go a long way and cut off oxygen from getting to the rust.
I used it on a tailgate which was starting to rust through from the inside and it never developed any further.
Buy a syringe from Boots and fill it with nice thick gearbox oil and just trickle it along seams or with a bit of rubber tubing on the end inject it into enclosed spaces.
A small amount will go a long way and cut off oxygen from getting to the rust.
08-19-2006, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Shopman,Aug 19 2006, 10:58 AM
A tip for stopping existing rust dead in any seams.
I used it on a tailgate which was starting to rust through from the inside and it never developed any further.
Buy a syringe from Boots and fill it with nice thick gearbox oil and just trickle it along seams or with a bit of rubber tubing on the end inject it into enclosed spaces.
A small amount will go a long way and cut off oxygen from getting to the rust.
I used it on a tailgate which was starting to rust through from the inside and it never developed any further.
Buy a syringe from Boots and fill it with nice thick gearbox oil and just trickle it along seams or with a bit of rubber tubing on the end inject it into enclosed spaces.
A small amount will go a long way and cut off oxygen from getting to the rust.
Good tip but the waxoyl aplied in the same way will do the same thing and it's got a corrosion inhibitor in it. Get the Waxoyl nice and hot first by placing it in hot water. Bass
1 watch out when taking the springs off. Use proper compressor. Don't leave the spring compressed.
2 make sure car is secure. Use 4 good quality H/D stands under the jacking points if jacking the whole car up.
3 Even then I'd put extra support under the car when you crawl underneath. Old tyres are good for this.
4 get a good work light
5 take your time - if stuff is seized. Use plenty of penetrating oil applied over 2 days and leave it to soak in.
6 Don't work on your own. At least have somebody around who knows where you are and is checking on you every 15 mins or so.
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