Spring rates 10 front and 12 rear, they can be switched back to front I think, and I did ask if they could supply different rates, they asked me what rates but I went with what they suggested anyway, reading the forums spring rates vary from as low as 4kgs to 18 kg and everything in between, so middle of the road cant be bad to start off with.

For an extra 72 Quid you can have pillow ball top mounts all round instead of the rubber, I went for those. They also have extenders for the rear adjusters so you can adjust without having to remove your trunk covers but they are only 25cms long, not long enough, I might try and make some longer ones.

I made brake ducts this this week, if you read the threads go for 2 inch not three there is hardly room for three without compressing the tube which defeats the object, 2" works great and cut the hole in the fender wall as low as possible not as high as one of the posts says and as inboard as possible. I did mine this way just behind the ARB, then under it, zip tied twice, behind it up behind steering arm, over top of brake hose clamp to cut out in backing plate. Sorry I did not take pics, my wifes camera is pink and brake dust and pink don't go well, gota keep the peace!

Cant wait for the coilovers to arrive. BTW I got ABD 4000 brake discs, SS hoses, Motul rbf 600 and ferodo 2500 pads on the way too.

 

Be interesting to see pictures of those brake ducts

 

I guessed someone would say that! So I took some close ups, (with the wheel on), but they are okay. I can't up load them, I think that because I am only a guest, so pm me if you want them.
There is also a picture of my custom Brake stopper too.

 

Steve, that's the part I'm unsure about - it is the different angle that causes the accelerated wear, so I'm led to believe (and this is also my own experience).

 

The buckets arrangement only allow the shafts to slide in/out as the suspension compresses/relaxes.
Normally they will run in pretty much the same small spot and do eventually wear away the bucket lining.
So if there is a significant ridge forming and you lower, then the bearings may be running further outboard (in the buckets) and running over that worn ridge.
This will cause the vibes right away.
If the angle was causing accelerated wear, then adding spacers to change the shaft length would no nothing.
As you dont change the angle of anything by changing the spacer sizes.
HTH?

 

Its not the angle that is the issue here but how a different angle moves the average bearing point ever so slightly (usuallyon to the ridge you describe). Spacers will move the bearing point away from the ridge so you wont get vibes. Or switch buckets over so the bearing will then be on the same spot as being in reverse gear was with no wear basically. You will then get vibes in reverse but so what....if you don't track in reverse.. Or fit spacers and find a new spot for the bearing to locate.

m1bjr I read in the post UTH about it being a mission to fit whole spacers, did you fit your spacers by dismantling everything, or did you buy split spacers or cut whole ones in half? Or is it not so difficult?

Anyone else do this cutting in half story?

 

As I said, I never fitted spacers!

If I had to I would get the cheapest items and cut them in half.
You can unbolt the ring of bolts and just slide them in, replace the bolts.
To fit whole requires a lot more work, possibly separating a balljoint at the hub, but I havent done that.

 

Sorry m1bjr you aint got spacers have you!

Any one else like to comment.

 

I bought the expensive T1R items but if I could do it again, i'd just buy sold ones and chop them.

Fitting the solid ones without chopping requires driveshaft removal which isn't difficult, but it's something I really would like to avoid if I could.

Oh, make sure you torque those bolts!!