Wheel Alignment issue - More Castor Needed
11-18-2007, 11:50 PM
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Coming back on to Nick graves comment shown below. I have double checked and all the shutlines are perfect
"Assuming all the shutlines are perfect, the body probably is straight"
"Assuming all the shutlines are perfect, the body probably is straight"
11-19-2007, 01:42 AM
#13
The alignment's not worse; he's chasing it 'round the car.
Basically, if you adjust the castor, it changes the camber & toe too, dur to the triangulation principle.
Mikey's probably right, but wishbones usually snap first, because they're cast iron. But you could also bend a steering arm or the upright, or something.
First off, I'd try a new wishbone & upright. And a track rod. You see, castor cannot be directly measured and it's calculated by comparing the relative rates of alignment of the two front wheels as you steer them. So it could be a lot of things, although the pulling would suggest it really is the castor that's out.
The other option is that the chassis leg's bent downwards (do you know what happened to the car?) so the frame isn't on straight. If that were the case, it would be a bugger to swap and the shutlines on the wing would give it away.
If possible, I'd try to get a suspension corner off a scrapper (of the same MY!) because there's a lot of bits to try.
Probably start with the wishbone. But I'd start with some calipers, in order to compare opposites with the other side, which seems to be aligned fine. You might be able to measure what's wrong.
Rear end's come out alright too!
Basically, if you adjust the castor, it changes the camber & toe too, dur to the triangulation principle.
Mikey's probably right, but wishbones usually snap first, because they're cast iron. But you could also bend a steering arm or the upright, or something.
First off, I'd try a new wishbone & upright. And a track rod. You see, castor cannot be directly measured and it's calculated by comparing the relative rates of alignment of the two front wheels as you steer them. So it could be a lot of things, although the pulling would suggest it really is the castor that's out.
The other option is that the chassis leg's bent downwards (do you know what happened to the car?) so the frame isn't on straight. If that were the case, it would be a bugger to swap and the shutlines on the wing would give it away.
If possible, I'd try to get a suspension corner off a scrapper (of the same MY!) because there's a lot of bits to try.
Probably start with the wishbone. But I'd start with some calipers, in order to compare opposites with the other side, which seems to be aligned fine. You might be able to measure what's wrong.
Rear end's come out alright too!
11-19-2007, 06:14 AM
#14
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Nick, Just been speaking to someone at a local body shop regarding the car. I think im going to give it to Honda, by doing this they can measure everything up to see what exactly is wrong, without having to keep on spending out shed loads of money
11-19-2007, 10:55 AM
#17
Take the car to TGM sport in Fleet, they are Honda specialists , run a race team, build and setup race and road cars and have a body shop supplying other top race teams etc, as such they are very very good at alignment and are also capable of giving the chassis a pull if needed, i am sure they will be able to find your problem, they will be much cheaper and far more trustworthy than any honda dealer
ask for Tom on 01252 811972
ask for Tom on 01252 811972
