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Winter refresh, Engine, Seats harness etc ready for next season

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Winter refresh, Engine, Seats harness etc ready for next season

 
Old 11-13-2018, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Nottm_S2 View Post
love the attention to detail Ray. when you swap rings does it need running in before you go off racing with it?
Yeah . i'll run a glaze buster through the bore and have to bed it all in as it'll have new rings , rods and big end shells
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Old 11-14-2018, 07:19 AM
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What is the mileage on this motor?
Interesting thread by the way, thanks for sharing
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Old 11-14-2018, 08:25 AM
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Con rods,, I've seen these self destruct at the little end and exit stage left and stripped an engine where there was a lot of wear in the little end, so as a precaution while my engine is in bits i thought i'd replace mine with a new set from Honda, after stripping my engine there was a little play but certainly good enough to go again but i also found pick up on the little end and gudgeon pin so a little relieved that i had bought new,





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Old 11-14-2018, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by flanders View Post
What is the mileage on this motor?
Interesting thread by the way, thanks for sharing
Not big miles at all about 85k but iv'e done 3 years sprinting and hillclimbs drift days and trackdays plus 5 years wringing it's neck it, had 57 on when i bought it and Ron put about 30k of very hard miles track days and drift days on it before me, i have over rev'd it umpteen times so not surprised the retainers were split,
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Old 11-15-2018, 06:32 AM
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Interesting seeing the marking on that small end, the diagnosis on mine once all stripped and measured was similar due to a blockage on #3 oil squirter and the resulting heat build-up/lack of lubrication! It looks pretty similar, have you checked the piston where the pin sits also? Mine appeared fine from an initial measure (bores both side of the piston within tolerance) but when a new pin was test-fitted it turns out they were out of square due to the pin fretting in there.

Was yours making any untoward noises, or was it just the oil consumption that prompted this? Mine just had a very gentle tap (almost like a sticky tappet) at idle, but being paranoid I checked it out and ending up getting away with a new rod and piston (although I replaced a whole raft of other parts with new OEM while it was apart). I had a trackday booked a week afterwards also, luckily I decided against it also!
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Old 11-15-2018, 07:26 AM
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Pistons,,,these were cleaned up using a Scotchbrite pad and penetrating oil ready for fitting to the new rods, this is where i found pit marks around the exhaust valve recess on all four pistons, i would image/hope they are an old war wound as they were covered in carbon build up but you can just make them out on the dirty piston so if anyone can shed light on what might have caused these , maybe Det ? duno not seen it just around the valve head before.





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Old 11-15-2018, 07:29 AM
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I've always assumed from reading posts that rebuilding these engines is near impossible and if it wasn't doing anything weird don't touch it.
The reason I am saying this is mine is at 138k ~11k charged now and i was thinking of doing the shells as a precaution?
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Old 11-15-2018, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Daytona-Dave View Post
Yeah . i'll run a glaze buster through the bore and have to bed it all in as it'll have new rings , rods and big end shells
Out of interest do you have a set routine for the bed in process?

Originally Posted by johnckeen View Post
I've always assumed from reading posts that rebuilding these engines is near impossible and if it wasn't doing anything weird don't touch it.
The reason I am saying this is mine is at 138k ~11k charged now and i was thinking of doing the shells as a precaution?
It no more technical than any other engine out there really, it just needs proper time and care taken to do things right.
I say that with my 1st proper oil change at 500miles on my rebuild... it could still go pop I guess! and yet to put boost through it

I wouldn't change shells unless there's a need to either, you need to get all the codes off the block/end of the crank to find out which colour(thickness) shells you need.
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Old 11-23-2018, 11:07 PM
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Piston back on the new rods with new rings and shells, the shells or big end bearings must be ordered matching the codes on the crank and conrods this will give you the correct colour markings per shell which equates to slightly different sizes you cannot just go out and buy a set of bearings for an OEM crank they must be sized via the codes on mine 1 2 and 4 needed brown bearings and number 3 green, care must be taken when fitting the piston rings the oil control ring is in 3 parts and must be seated correctly and the gaps spaced equally around the piston









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Old 11-27-2018, 11:17 AM
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Is this all being done with the bottom end still in the car?
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