Jake89

So i have mine wired up as follows...

The 3 cables from the original battery + going into one side of the kill switch (one of them is the alternator B+ wire, am i correct)?

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/143525163@N02/, on Flickr

Then on the kill switch, i have the cable coming in from the + on the battery - which is now in the boot. The cable coming through the buklhead (as pictured above). A jumper wire between Bulkhead cable and W/1. And a Resistor which is earthed on the opposite connector.

by https://www.flickr.com/photos/143525163@N02/, on Flickr

And its still not cutting the engine.

razzele

Why don’t you try running the yellow and black ignition wire to the second set of terminals on the kill switch

TanukiUK

I must say for the time and faff it saves, the Cartek electronic cutouts are simply fantastic. They're really completely idiot proof as all you have to do is 1) interrupt the fuel pump power with the two smaller terminals and 2) take the battery negative to the larger terminal of the unit.

I run them in both my Elise race cars and the S2000 we're building. Here's the S2000 install. Ignore the temporary -ve strap.

The unit contains two isolating/switching circuits. The first breaks the connection between the negative side of the vehicle’s battery from chassis/earth, thereby disconnecting the battery from all of the car's electrical systems, while the second cuts electrical power to the fuel pump forcing the engine to stop and electrical power generation by the alternator to cease. Alternator run-down protection is incorporated for peace of mind.

razzele

Yeah I love the solid state ones, but £17 vs 250+ !