it takes a lot for the car to actually scrape. that would be a huge dip...or something in the center of the car.

stiffening Koni yellows will make the spring harder to expand...not contract. they're rebound adjustable. there is no bump adjustment. The springs, I'd venture, are comparable to stock in terms of rate (+ or -). stiffening the shocks all the way will make the car MORE liable to scrape...and the harshness you felt was likely the bumpstops, which are active quite a bit since Koni yellows *I believe* have slightly less compression travel than stock.

I would loosen the adjuster a bit. clockwise is full soft, BTW.

Hope I'm not coming off as anything but helpful.
[/quote]

I see, and no bro i need all the help i can get loll... I'm just trying to learn... and okay i will try and put all 4 corners at around hallway point and see how she handles. I've never driven a s2k except mine so idk how the stocks feel tbh. But i like the way these feel. this is a lot of good info! i appreciate you and everyone else's feedback thanks!!!

and as far as the fender rolling issue goes,,, what if i keep the same wheels and just roll the fenders, you think i can fit 225/255 on there? from what i can see i think i could. Im just trying to keep the car unmolested loll. ik that there a a descent amount of mods on her but it looks like as if she rolled outta the factory like that.

 

There is a sticky post at the top of this forum that answers a lot of your fender rolling questions. I can see how it could be a challenge to find someone in North Dakota. I paid $150 for all corners, most people won't know it's even been done.

You could certainly keep your current wheels with 225/255 and a fender roll. Ideally it would be nice to have a little more wheel width but it is acceptable.

 

I see, yea i am kind of looking into it, and i will definitely check that out! yea north dakota doesn't have much to offer loll. Unless you have a truck. But i go to Michigan 2-3 times a year so I'm hoping that there is someone reputable there or along the way. And i would pay $150 in a heartbeat even $300 as long as the fender liner still does its job. I just get worries that the fender liner will have to get copped or part of the fender will have to. But i'll snoop around. And yes ideally i would like to have like 10" wheels but if the 8.5 will make do then thats fine with me.

Now that, thats outta the way you think i can run 225/40 front and 255/40 or 35 rear?
and what tires would you recommend for maximum traction on the streets dry & wet. I mean i would try and keep her outta the rain but if it starts raining while I'm driving then i rather be safe than sorry. What about semi slicks? or is that too much, or are they no good in the wet?

and thank you for all of your help nate!!! I really appreciate it!!!

 

No problem, we are here to help. If you aren't familiar with the sidewall number, it's a percentage and not a fixed number. 225/40 and 255/35 are almost exactly the same diameter which is the combo you want. 40% of 225 = 35% of 255.

Agree with B Serious, best options for what you want in 225/225 are Bridgestone S-04 and Michelin PSS. Advan AD08R if you want to step up to a extreme performance tire. Tirerack is a great resource to compare.

This is a good source to compare wheel and tire fitments. It won't be car specific but is useful for comparisons and calculation.
http://www.willtheyfit.com/#isPage=1

 

The fronts probably don't need a full roll. they likely just need the tabs folded up. But...I would recommend cutting them off to be safe. Just make sure you cover the scar with undercoat or something.

The rear roll is easy. If it still scrapes, then you may need a bumper tab relocate.

225 and 255 will fit fine on your wheels.

 

cool bro! that helps. Thanks again I will definitely check out that site.
have a good night!

 

cool man! i will definitely have to do something about the rolls. I appreciate you help a lot!! thanks! and have a good night

 

Man there is so much mis information from the orignal owner and in replies to this thread its overwheling.

First off the brake kit. The wilwood kit is one of the smaller BBK's out there with the most clearance. Look at this post.
https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/906...t__p__21103251

According to that they fit behind an OEM 17 with a 5mm spacer. Wilwood also has a wheel clearance diagram on their site for help.
http://www.wilwood.com/Images/BrakeK...605_wcd-lg.jpg

So with this in mind you could probably fit these under a lot of different wheels that have a relatively high offset. I would be you could fit them behind a set of s2000 specific Volks with a small spacer. You still have not posted the info we need about your wheels but looking at what these are currently available in from Volk my guess is you have

18x7.5 +43 in front
18x8.5 +52 in the rear

Now Volk does tend to offer various offsets that they discontinue over the years so it is possible your wheels are different offsets but until you take them off and look I will guess the above it what you have considering the very few choice I see these wheels available in.

The misinformation in this thread is about what fenders need rolling. The fronts are ALWAYS the fenders that are at a higher risk for actual damage from the wheels. The rears are more audible when they rub but they are much stronger and since the rear wheel doesn't turn they are a much lower risk of actual damage. The fronts have less space and since the wheel turns it is much easier for the tire to grab the lip of the wheel. That is another misconception about the front fenders. It is the tiny fender lip NOT the tabs that the tire grabs and pulls damaging the fender. I have rolled the fenders on a lot of S2000's and every one that has had damage to the fenders it has been front fenders and it has been the lip not the tabs that the tire caught on and pulled down and once that happens its a trip to the body shop to make it look perfect again. It can also cut into your tire.

If you roll anything it should be the front fenders and that fender lip needs to be rolled flat. You should be able to leave the rears alone if the offsets above are accurate even with a 245 tire. 255 will likely need a bit more camber. I would start with a 245 and see what kind of space you have to work with after an alignment.

 

Wow! thats a lot of good info bro! First off thank you. Secondly, its a bit of a challenge for me to get a wheel off where I'm currently situated. I thought i was going to be able to get it done at my buddies shop because i have like zero tools out here atm. The cars going into a garage soon and then i can actually do what i like cuz right now its street parked so its a little bit of challenge. On top of that i work 7 days a week. Any ways, from the looks of it those dimensions that you mentioned might be correct. So I'm going to do my best and get the offset sometime soon. And yes it makes sense to roll the fronts for sure and see if i need to roll the rears. I will definitely see what needs to be done if necessary. Thank you very much for all of your input, helps me a great deal!!! Have a good one!

 

Lol...I think you may have over reacted. Overwhelming, he says.


My VIN tagged original fender has been through 17x7.5's with 225's. 17X9 +45 and 255's. And now 17x10 +50 with 255's in the last 9 or 10 years.

Don't become overwhelmed and faint just yet.

I have not rolled the lip you are talking about. The car has seen more track days than I can remember. Its low. I have the tabs cut off...that's it.

On the right side of the car, my original fender's tab got caught by the tire and turned the fender inside out. This was with 17x7.5's about 8 years back.

The right side now has a new fender...whose tabs I cut off. I have since crunched this fender from a spin-off. But...it only crunched being pushed onto the tire. I did not pull the lip out.

TBH, its been a long time. I think the lips may have been curled up, to be fair. But not rolled flat...or maybe not even rolled at all. I just felt under there today. Idk. Lip's still there.

The reason I recommended minimal rolling for the OP:

-He has 18x7.5's.

-He's not planning on track time where counter steer turns fenders into bacon and roast beef.

-If he puts a fender on top of a tire on a driveway curb...he'll crunch it before he ever pulls it out.

-Minimal rolling means minimal CHANCE of damage. You might be the best fender roller in the world. But rolling does present more of a CHANCE of issues. Minimal roll...minimal issue.

-I have barely (or not?) rolled my lips. They are certainly not flat. Flat rolling definitely presents the chance for damage.

Your experience may be different than mine. I don't think its overwhelming misinformation, though.