areomotive 340 pump install with relay
08-27-2013, 01:19 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
areomotive 340 pump install with relay
ok ladies and gents forgive my bad punctuation and lack of paragraph formation
so I installed my aero 340 fuel pump with a relay so ive read that people are having resistance problems wires melting relays going bad.
so lets start with some basics we are putting a pump that has a substantial amp draw current what ever you want to call it.so the stock wire is rated for 15-18 amps but that's at 14.5 volts now as voltage drops current resistance rises so a relay is needed to bring voltage up now if you want to do what I did you need to have a 100 watt soldering iron various size shrink wrap/tube patience and an understanding of how to solder which I am not going to discuss. ok the first step get a 10 gauge wire back to the fuel pump area and a 30 amp fuse near the battery next take the 3 screws out of the pump housing cover unplug the fuel pump pull the rubber boot out of this top cover and pull the harness out of it place it aside now you have access to the fuel pump housing but before you take it out you need to disassemble the connector the top of the connector pops open by pulling outward on the tabs and swings open like a door now cut the hinges as it wont close with 10 gauge wire going into the plug. next the blue piece on the bottom of the connector can be removed set it aside take a small jewelers flat blade or an allen key that has been ground down to a gradual point take care that the tip never blues or it will be soft and not durable enough for the work.
as you will see in the pictures you depress a small grey tang on the bottom side of the connector that will allow you to remove the power wire once extracted cut it a half inch up then with a small pick open the end of the terminal and remove the weather seal then remove the insulation on the wire next get your soldering iron hot take 10-12 inches of 10 gauge wire strip back 4-5 mm then try and push the wires together if careful you can slide them together and get the 10 ga all the way in to the terminal were the factory crimp is using the outer crimp that help the seal on crimp lightly now with no stray wires poking out solder the wire to the trminal if you do it right it will fit back into the connector after it cools slide some shrink tube over the wire and heat it don't slide it down too far or it will interfere with the wire going into the connector do the same think with the ground make that whip 2-3 feet long lots of bolts to put it on.
so remember power comes from the ground wire does the work and returns to the positive side of the battery after the work is done people seem to over look this that's why you need that 10ga ground wire ok now that you have your connector with 10ga wire you can pull the pump be careful not to drop the screws as they aren't retrievable take the pump out and some where with good ventilation pop off the bottom of the pump housing removing the rubber bushing on the bottom next squeeze the connector on fuel pump pull up then squeeze the top clamp pull down and remove the pump I recommend getting the best clamps you can find I had some from a Ducati race bike I built in 00 Ducati ran 80-90 psi fuel pressure so I figure it will work for me. now if you want to reuse the stock fuel sock you just put it back together like it came apart. on the wiring intank after comparing the wires areomotive sent with this pump they are virtually the same size so I didn't bother replacing them all though I did route them where the return fuel sprays them. if you plan to use the sock that came with the pump you will need to modify the bottom plastic cup that holds it all in so cut out the center area until you can slide into place the same goes for the rubber shock absorber. also the sleeve that comes with the pump use it spray some silicone spray on the inside and slide it on as the pump will fit lose in the housing if not verify that the sending unit has full sweep and doesn't stick reinstall pump housing into car.
take top plate put the connector and wires back through reseat grommet push power wire through the grommet and pull the ground wire through take a spare connector that fits 10 gauge wire pull the plastic off the back open the crimp area with a pick slide the power wire in crimp then solder take a 1 inch piece of shrink tube and slide it over the end heat and repeat the process on the power wire going to the fuel pump the crimp spades on the factory power and ground that will trigger relay and now you have 10 ga wire from the battery all the way to the metal spade sticking out of the pump housing one tip make sure the spade terminal's fit tight on the relay as every terminal increases resistance and that is your enemy now so pictures of this hell
hope this helps and I don't plan to argue my logic so keep it to your self that said field all the questions you have and I will try to answer as best I can the last pic is my answer to the package tray becoming a passive radiator when a subwoffer is placed in the trunk lots of chamfered holes 
so I installed my aero 340 fuel pump with a relay so ive read that people are having resistance problems wires melting relays going bad.
so lets start with some basics we are putting a pump that has a substantial amp draw current what ever you want to call it.so the stock wire is rated for 15-18 amps but that's at 14.5 volts now as voltage drops current resistance rises so a relay is needed to bring voltage up now if you want to do what I did you need to have a 100 watt soldering iron various size shrink wrap/tube patience and an understanding of how to solder which I am not going to discuss. ok the first step get a 10 gauge wire back to the fuel pump area and a 30 amp fuse near the battery next take the 3 screws out of the pump housing cover unplug the fuel pump pull the rubber boot out of this top cover and pull the harness out of it place it aside now you have access to the fuel pump housing but before you take it out you need to disassemble the connector the top of the connector pops open by pulling outward on the tabs and swings open like a door now cut the hinges as it wont close with 10 gauge wire going into the plug. next the blue piece on the bottom of the connector can be removed set it aside take a small jewelers flat blade or an allen key that has been ground down to a gradual point take care that the tip never blues or it will be soft and not durable enough for the work.
as you will see in the pictures you depress a small grey tang on the bottom side of the connector that will allow you to remove the power wire once extracted cut it a half inch up then with a small pick open the end of the terminal and remove the weather seal then remove the insulation on the wire next get your soldering iron hot take 10-12 inches of 10 gauge wire strip back 4-5 mm then try and push the wires together if careful you can slide them together and get the 10 ga all the way in to the terminal were the factory crimp is using the outer crimp that help the seal on crimp lightly now with no stray wires poking out solder the wire to the trminal if you do it right it will fit back into the connector after it cools slide some shrink tube over the wire and heat it don't slide it down too far or it will interfere with the wire going into the connector do the same think with the ground make that whip 2-3 feet long lots of bolts to put it on.
so remember power comes from the ground wire does the work and returns to the positive side of the battery after the work is done people seem to over look this that's why you need that 10ga ground wire ok now that you have your connector with 10ga wire you can pull the pump be careful not to drop the screws as they aren't retrievable take the pump out and some where with good ventilation pop off the bottom of the pump housing removing the rubber bushing on the bottom next squeeze the connector on fuel pump pull up then squeeze the top clamp pull down and remove the pump I recommend getting the best clamps you can find I had some from a Ducati race bike I built in 00 Ducati ran 80-90 psi fuel pressure so I figure it will work for me. now if you want to reuse the stock fuel sock you just put it back together like it came apart. on the wiring intank after comparing the wires areomotive sent with this pump they are virtually the same size so I didn't bother replacing them all though I did route them where the return fuel sprays them. if you plan to use the sock that came with the pump you will need to modify the bottom plastic cup that holds it all in so cut out the center area until you can slide into place the same goes for the rubber shock absorber. also the sleeve that comes with the pump use it spray some silicone spray on the inside and slide it on as the pump will fit lose in the housing if not verify that the sending unit has full sweep and doesn't stick reinstall pump housing into car.
take top plate put the connector and wires back through reseat grommet push power wire through the grommet and pull the ground wire through take a spare connector that fits 10 gauge wire pull the plastic off the back open the crimp area with a pick slide the power wire in crimp then solder take a 1 inch piece of shrink tube and slide it over the end heat and repeat the process on the power wire going to the fuel pump the crimp spades on the factory power and ground that will trigger relay and now you have 10 ga wire from the battery all the way to the metal spade sticking out of the pump housing one tip make sure the spade terminal's fit tight on the relay as every terminal increases resistance and that is your enemy now so pictures of this hell
hope this helps and I don't plan to argue my logic so keep it to your self that said field all the questions you have and I will try to answer as best I can the last pic is my answer to the package tray becoming a passive radiator when a subwoffer is placed in the trunk lots of chamfered holes
08-27-2013, 01:49 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
yes the pic top right shows the stock wire versus the aeromotive wire not much difference plus the wires have fuel pouring over them so there ability to carry current is increased
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08-29-2013, 12:59 AM
#8
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Thread Starter
thanks spectacle I figure with all terminal's tight the solid metal 10 ga or close I doubt I will have trouble 9 pis boost id 1000cc injectors there not working hard so should be good to go just finished subwoofer install in the spare tire area and andamp above the fuel pump look very stealth
10-03-2013, 03:03 PM
#9
Community Organizer
Thread Starter
well 2000 miles on this setup and its doing great wires are cool and pressure very consentient 
I think this is a very good way to install the 340
I think this is a very good way to install the 340
10-03-2013, 03:13 PM
#10
