A/C line relocations (tuck) on Full Race ap2
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A/C line relocations (tuck) on Full Race ap2
This weekend I completed my A/C line relocation on my full race turbo ap2. When I was installing the turbo kit, we bent the small A/C line and broke it, at which time I decided to delete the a/c lines temporarily. With summer coming soon, I decided to do a A/C line tuck, especially since I'm moving to NC, where it is very humid.
I took the lines to an awesome hose place called All Hose here in Las Vegas. They used the bulkhead fittings and tig welded new lines and fittings so I could run the lines in s/s braided line. I installed all the fittings, and routed the lines through the passenger fender. The small line was then run to the dryer, and the large line routed all the way to the compressor, through the front bumper area, behind the intercooler. All thats left is to get the system leak tested and charged tomorrow.
While doing this, I decided it would be easier to remove the heater valve and bypass the heater core, so it would be easier to install all the fittings/lines. Next fall, I will need to figure out a way to tuck the heater valve and hoses, perhaps behind the plastic cowl above the firewall. Any suggestions from the wire tuck/ hose tuck gurus out there?
piece for the line going into the compressor:
for the line going into the dryer:
the entire line going into the dryer:
the two pieces coming out of the firewall:
all the s/s lines and fittings:
prepping the car for the install:
intalled fittings in firewall:
installing the lines:
more installing the lines:
finished product:
I took the lines to an awesome hose place called All Hose here in Las Vegas. They used the bulkhead fittings and tig welded new lines and fittings so I could run the lines in s/s braided line. I installed all the fittings, and routed the lines through the passenger fender. The small line was then run to the dryer, and the large line routed all the way to the compressor, through the front bumper area, behind the intercooler. All thats left is to get the system leak tested and charged tomorrow.
While doing this, I decided it would be easier to remove the heater valve and bypass the heater core, so it would be easier to install all the fittings/lines. Next fall, I will need to figure out a way to tuck the heater valve and hoses, perhaps behind the plastic cowl above the firewall. Any suggestions from the wire tuck/ hose tuck gurus out there?
piece for the line going into the compressor:
for the line going into the dryer:
the entire line going into the dryer:
the two pieces coming out of the firewall:
all the s/s lines and fittings:
prepping the car for the install:
intalled fittings in firewall:
installing the lines:
more installing the lines:
finished product:
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I had the "low" valve tig welded into the large diameter aluminum off the firewall today. Got the system charged and it runs nice and cold! I would highly recommend this to anyone running a full-race kit if you want to keep a/c. I spent roughly $300 on parts/welding, and another $120 to the system leak tested and charged.
I will post up a pic of the "low valve" shortly.
I will post up a pic of the "low valve" shortly.
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Originally Posted by ikeyballz,Mar 10 2009, 11:18 PM
looks great! Clean engine bay, Im jealous. No probs with the AC gas having to run that far to be condensed and shit? or does it just use a LOT of gas to fill?
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Looks good. I like it. Never would have thought to use braided S/S lines like that. I have to relocate my A/C lines very soon during my S/C install. I love this idea, just dont want to go all out like you did and do the fender tuck. I would rather have it more accessible in the engine bay located out of the way neatly. Anywho.....good job, it gives ideas for sure.
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Originally Posted by roy365,Mar 11 2009, 03:42 AM
Looks good. I like it. Never would have thought to use braided S/S lines like that. I have to relocate my A/C lines very soon during my S/C install. I love this idea, just dont want to go all out like you did and do the fender tuck. I would rather have it more accessible in the engine bay located out of the way neatly. Anywho.....good job, it gives ideas for sure.
my advice would be to find a good hose shop. and don't use earl's s/s hose. this hose is industrial grade, teflon lined, and will hold upwards of 3,000 psi....