Rod Bearings/Engine mount bolts busted the block
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Rod Bearings/Engine mount bolts busted the block
First off let me say what parts are on the car
Innotvative 75a Mounts
J's Exhaust Manifold
Invidia Test Pipe
HKS 75mm Single Exhaust
AEM EMS
Diff Collars
AEM UEGO
Modifry Coolant Fix
126K on the engine
So the car is kinda loud inside
I was Auto Xing yesterday 100 plus degrees and noticed on my Defi Oil Pressure that the pressure was very low at idle almost to zero, but the car seemed to be running fine still, and the dash oil light (which now after thinking must be oil level only) was not on, so I shunned the Defi off as erroneous information bad sensor, wiring etc because the oil pressure wasn't responding and the car still ran fine, A/F Coolant temp etc. I spun the car and killed it afterwards when I went to start the car again I heard a lound "thunk" (Now I believe that was when it happened) I finished the event even managed to pull first place fastest time overall! I drove home and hour drive on the way home the car acted and sounded like inside that it had an exhaust leak again the roads through memphis suck and maybe I had killed my exhaust, at this point I was starting to worry this noise, low oil pressure etc. I jacked the car up no exhaust leak to be found, drained the oil and pulled the filter. The oil came out very thin like water but it had a copper/bronze color and shiney sparkles in it, at this point from what I remember from school that indicated rod bearings there was no metal on the drain plug magnet. I oil also smelled like fuel. I then replaced the oil and filter drove it again it seemed like it had higher oil pressure but still not enough driving, and the exhaust leak sound came back. Now you can rev the engine at idle and the noise is not heard its only audible at 4000 RPM plus it idles fine now and does NOT sound like it has a rod knocking.
So can anyone confirm this?
Next what is my best option?
I guess to replace the bearings will involve replacing the crankshaft....so that requires pulling the engine? So I might as well replace what else rings, headgaskets, bolts???
Or buy a short block?
OR
Should I sell the engine in its current state? How much is it worth?
And just buy a new/used low miles?
Here is one video of the oil I drained
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ansrukBOQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPverRwFI1A
Innotvative 75a Mounts
J's Exhaust Manifold
Invidia Test Pipe
HKS 75mm Single Exhaust
AEM EMS
Diff Collars
AEM UEGO
Modifry Coolant Fix
126K on the engine
So the car is kinda loud inside
I was Auto Xing yesterday 100 plus degrees and noticed on my Defi Oil Pressure that the pressure was very low at idle almost to zero, but the car seemed to be running fine still, and the dash oil light (which now after thinking must be oil level only) was not on, so I shunned the Defi off as erroneous information bad sensor, wiring etc because the oil pressure wasn't responding and the car still ran fine, A/F Coolant temp etc. I spun the car and killed it afterwards when I went to start the car again I heard a lound "thunk" (Now I believe that was when it happened) I finished the event even managed to pull first place fastest time overall! I drove home and hour drive on the way home the car acted and sounded like inside that it had an exhaust leak again the roads through memphis suck and maybe I had killed my exhaust, at this point I was starting to worry this noise, low oil pressure etc. I jacked the car up no exhaust leak to be found, drained the oil and pulled the filter. The oil came out very thin like water but it had a copper/bronze color and shiney sparkles in it, at this point from what I remember from school that indicated rod bearings there was no metal on the drain plug magnet. I oil also smelled like fuel. I then replaced the oil and filter drove it again it seemed like it had higher oil pressure but still not enough driving, and the exhaust leak sound came back. Now you can rev the engine at idle and the noise is not heard its only audible at 4000 RPM plus it idles fine now and does NOT sound like it has a rod knocking.
So can anyone confirm this?
Next what is my best option?
I guess to replace the bearings will involve replacing the crankshaft....so that requires pulling the engine? So I might as well replace what else rings, headgaskets, bolts???
Or buy a short block?
OR
Should I sell the engine in its current state? How much is it worth?
And just buy a new/used low miles?
Here is one video of the oil I drained
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9ansrukBOQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZPverRwFI1A
#2
count on a new oil pump which is likely the cause of the issues, too bad you couldn't get sample of the oil and get it analyzed for metals that would tell you quite a bit though you seem to know what the oil is telling you by naked eye. If it was me I'd be looking for a lightly used motor or bottom end.
#4
Moderator
I would pull the oil pan. The BAD stuff usually doesnt drain out, it sits behind the well for the oil pump. If the pan is void of any large particles, you can pull the four main rod caps and inspect the bearings. This whole job can be done in a few hours.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Are you saying if it lacks large particles then it may be possible to just replace the bearings and maybe it will last through the summer?
#6
Moderator
If you spun a bearing, it wont last but a few days or weeks.
If you have bearing wear, nothing spun, and the crank is ok, new bearings will bring you oil psi back up.
You still would have an underlying issue that needs to be found.
If you have bearing wear, nothing spun, and the crank is ok, new bearings will bring you oil psi back up.
You still would have an underlying issue that needs to be found.
#7
Banned
If its not knocking at idle you can probably get away w/a bearing slap, but like billman said, you have other issues that caused this. Bearings dont become damaged for no reason.
I'd bearing slap it and start building another short block. Usually you can find a bare rebuildable block and crank for around 200-300 bux
I'd bearing slap it and start building another short block. Usually you can find a bare rebuildable block and crank for around 200-300 bux
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#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Im about to pull the pan, if I can just bearing slap it Ill cross my fingers to last through the summer, I was planning on this fall/winter swapping a 2.2 in the car. Ill keep you guys up I just picked up some plastigauge