Good Evening,

I wanted to ask here before I post something in WTB or go ahead with a purchase from a retailer. I came across a few threads (which I will list below) that outline the same issue I have. Turns out there seems to be 3 solutions. However, let me start from the beginning...

Once upon a time... Just kidding.

The first thing I did after lowering my car was develop an ignorance for how much a 1.5" drop actually is. More importantly how much stress it puts on the tires due to the change in center of gravity. After researching I discovered that my car was not a civic and had 'built-in' camber adjustment bolts on each arm. I anxiously waited for the weekend to come and slid underneath my car to adjust manually until I was able to take it to an alignment shop.

However, my car had other thoughts. The driver's side lower control arm (where the camber bolt resides) is essentially seized up. I am unable to budge the bolt. In fact a friend of mine and myself successfully lifted my car into the air we put so much torque on it (props to the super hero bolt for not snapping). Alas, my dilemma. Here are the options as I see them.

P/N 51350-S2A-030 (I think)

1. Purchase complete new lower control arm($217)
2. Purchase used lower control arm ($117)
3. Purchase new bushing kit ($97)
4. Locate an place that sells the OEM bushing separately (???)

For reference this is what I need to replace. Not only am i having trouble locating the P/N but I am confused on what I would exactly I would need to purchase.

[url="https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/711726-stock-camber-adjustment/"]







RED CIRCLE = bushing I require. Using the images above I have determined that I can not buy the bushing outright as it doesn't have its own P/N. So I am left with either purchasing a new or user arm or bushing from this website. I have already purchased the new 19, 23, and 25.

How should I proceed S2kI members?

Any input is appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt

Reference Thread
Reference Thread 2
Reference Thread 3

 

Hit it with liquid wrench and let it soak. If a no go there use a torch. Have you destroyed the bushing? If I'm looking at your photo correctly and you lifted the car then you have tightened the bolt instead of trying to loosen it.

 

Your pic is of the rear suspension TOE adjuster.

The diagrams are of the front suspension.

In the front suspension, you should be more worried about caster adjuster collar #13. Because if it is seized up (very very likely) you will need to cut the a-arm out of the car with a saws-all if you cant get it to free up.

 

I have hit it with everything available to unsieze it. Eventually, when I have the parts to replace the ones that are seized I will have to use something. I just don't want to go through front left tires every few months because I am unable to adjust the camber on that side.

Ignore "my picture", it's a copy and paste from another thread. I didn't realize it was the rear. using the image from majestic, the area circled in red is definately what is broken. Additionally, as of a few weeks ago, #13 caster bolt, is fine. I'm assuming you're asking about this because if I replace the arm I will need to get this bolt off as well.



How do you recommend I proceed? New LCA? New bushings from kingsmotorsports?

 

Crummy diagram I.don't. Even see the sway bar links, I'm actually going to.replace my LF control arm with an nrg one
I.just put a eibach rear camber kit, front left and right sway bar links and left lower control.arm ball.joint. then replace my higflow cat with CA legal cat and change all fluids trans, rear diff, and oil, maybe Ngk spark plugs its a pretty penny gripes I'm almost done good luck.to.all.check your cars out for.these parts

 

I'm not sure what all that means but I am sure glad that I already solved this.