outeiroj

i had inline pro turn my f22 into an f24 and the difference is eye opening... the f-series motor is one of a kind... just my .02 tho

Chibo

It appears the K series oil starvation issues are solved by a Moroso / OBX pan.

I'm starting to plan my build more tightly, I'd like to make about 240whp and safely rev to 8400-ish in a roadrace environment. Seems like this means aftermarket rods since the common wisdom indicates non 06-08 K24A2 rods are safe to 7600 and 06-08 rods are safe to 8000.

Luder94

Just got my K24 swap home from the shop. Prayontoo K24 block, K20z3 head, Skunk2 IM, K Miata TB, AEM CAI, K-Pro, e85 tune....255 to the wheels, 190 ft./lbs. Builder/tuner thinks he can free up another 20 to 30 whp with a free-er flowing exhaust system. It's a mild build meant for reliable, weekend canyon carving with an HPDE or two each summer. In the last 1500 miles, it's spun to 8200 frequently, but truth be told, motor is already making peak at about 7500.

The torque starts coming in at about 2000 on load and goes through vtec transition....the power down low is going to have me start re-evaluation my diff/rear end, and possibly fortifying the transmission.

I plan to get a solid 5000-7000 miles on the car and swap this summer. It won't be driven tenderly....the goal is to build a bullet proof near 300hp NA S2000 keeping the stock trans and diff.

jvega1562

Did you end up going with some different than the Ballade components? very interested in this route...

Luder94

Went with 2nrs trans adapter plate, Hybrid Racing mounts, ClutchMasters swap clutch, some Trac Tuff pieces, KMiata pieces, custom harness mashup to keep all OE features (AC included).

Chibo

KMiata has a pretty cool intake manifold now
https://kmiata.com/products/kmiata-rwd-intake-manifold

DavidNJ

If you want a regular street driver, the K-swap is not the answer. Unlike the K-Miata, this is done much less frequently. The Ballarde and other kits are more likely to remove the A/C and P/S than provide brackets (I don't think anyone provides brackets).

As the S2000 gets old, support will focus on the original engines.

If you are starting with a beater or salvage car destined for track use, the K-swap may make sense. The LS and 2JZ have also been swapped. They need different transmissions, rear-ends, and axles. That is also common for any high power turbo S2000. That is a big budget. Note: if you are on pump gas, the LS will produce the most power and the most flexible power with the least hassle.

If you want a project, K-swap a Civic or Integra and convert it to AWD, the current rage. Probably could do a CRX and have a 2100# AWD car at whatever power level you want (depending on fuel and budget).

But net, the K-swap S2000 is far from nirvana.

Jub

Idk about that. I think there will be the OEM, , street driving, and collector crowd that focuses on original engines. Unless costs for those are reasonable, I was thinking the motorsports crowd that is still interested in using the S chassis would probably go K series for pure availability and cost reasons.

DavidNJ

If someone is looking for power on pump gas, an LS beats a K-swap. People also swap 2JZ-GTE engines, however, I don't see that as a big advantage over a K-series. It just swaps displacement for revs. The LS adds a lot of displacement in a compact package.

If E85 or C85+ is available, the question becomes what the target power level is.

Unless starting with a salvage car with no engine and being built without air conditioning or power steering. How many of them are there? What if there is no transmission? Is a K-swap to CD009 or Tremec adapter available?

Unless a rod is sticking out the side of the block, an S2000 engine should be repairable. Sleeves are the norm for a performance build. Crank, rods, and pistons are available and all can be custom ordered for a reasonable cost. An aftermarket head is available. After electronics, p/s, and a/c, is the K-swap really that cheap?


What is the scenario where a K-swap S2000 makes sense? In that case, if it exists, does it really make more sense than a K-Miata or AWD K-swap Civic/Integra?

Jub

Disclaimer: I have not thoroughly researched each of these swaps but have surface level knowledge. LS and 2JZ-GTE weigh significantly more than a K series and don't play nicely with an S2k drivetrain to say the least. I don't see why power steering would be an issue since we have an electronic steering rack. The S2k's transmission should be sufficient for an NA K-swap. I don't think the first engine provides a positive value proposition for the swap, unless the goal is to make > 250ish whp. It seems the K series makes more WHP with bolt-ons than the F-series. I've heard the F-series bottom end is stronger but do not have quantitative data to back that up. The best part about the K series is that, provided you have a good F series, you can sell your F for the cost of a swap kit. You can then buy a K-series for much cheaper than an F replacement. If that engine blows, replacement costs are much cheaper than an equivalent K. That replacement cost differential will probably increase in the future as F series become even more rare and K-series likely won't feel the same supply shortage.

As for the K-miata and K-swap integra civic, that is a subjective choice. Personally, I think RWD is more fun. An Integra/Civic with a K-swap is my current answer to lap times for the money but I'd rather drive an RWD car. A K-miata is nice but I'm not sure that I would have one without a full cage. The NA/NB series Miata chassis seem too flimsy for the amount of speed that a K-swap provides without a full cage. I think it makes sense when someone already owns an S2k chassis that has been developed and has either blown the engine or wants more NA power.