yup, hence I posted "hypothetically, you could run the stock parameters to have it run like a stock car" if you knew all the stock parameters. Just seems like a lot of money to just run it like stock imo. I'm pretty sure I have an idea why you're considering the ems, but my personal opinion is that it's a lot of money for a practically stock car. Me personally, I wouldn't think of an ems unless I was FI'ed or serious na like itb or new im plus ported tb Unless, you're getting the ems for cheap or you have something up your sleeves. Once again, this was all my personal opinion

 

I would guess that you do know what I am trying to do with the ems lol. But, I plan on finding one used so I won't take too much of a hit on resale, plus I wont lose my warranty(since I cant find a dealership to carry out my original plans anyways), and as far as tuning.

I plan on stock ap2 settings for 0-8.2k, and stock ap1 settings for 8.2k-9k.
Only revvin to 8.6k. This way, I am just as safe as you are with your ecu Sam. See where I am getting at? Then when I want to go tune it I will have that possibility also.

 

yeah i figured it was for the redline, but I didn't want to post anything about that til you posted. You know with the ems you can set the redline so you would never have to worry about over reving, but you would still need the shift beeper or at least something visual to know what rev you are when the tach is blinking. You could always buy a 04-05 uk gauge cluster baller.

I just figure if you're going to spend that money and get an ems, get it tuned so it runs better than what I did. About the warranty, make sure it's the ecu that keeps track of high rpm. I know there's something that keeps track of your highest recorded rpm, but I don't know if it's in the ecu or some other box. Obviously, if they saw a high rpm of 8500-8600, then you're out of luck. do a search if you decide to go that route so that you are able to keep your warranty. I think the going rate of tuning is about 125 an hour and I know Shawn Church aka ultimate lurker on the board charges about 500 to tune an ems. Keep those things in mind before you decide which route you want to take

 

Yea, but I'm not so concerned right now about tuning it as I am just wondering if I could set it myself to the factory settings, that way I would have nothing to worry about until I was able to get it tuned

 

having an aem ems is a good thing, but it wont do much to a stock car unless you have some FI or a custom built motor. the ems does come with a base map, but i wouldn't rely on it as a daily driver.

now the f22c motor is capable to rev past 8k (mine reved all the way to 10.5k with the ems), but there's a good reason that honda set the rev limiter at 8k for our ap2's.

if you really want to increase the rev, you should play it safe and up grade the valves & valve springs, and possibly get the head ported and polished too. that way you may get more out of your NA set up in congruent with the ems.

whatever you end up doing, be sure to give me a ride in the car when you're done.

 

Damn, I am not made out of money man. I think reving to 8600 once in a while wouldn't hurt an engine that has a cutoff at 8200. And by once in a while, I literally mean like maybe once a week. I would much rather just swap with an ap1 ecu but Honda dealerships seem to hate me. Also, no warranty loss with aem ems which may very well save my ass someday. I am pretty headstrong on my pursuit of raising my redline to see the results. I have my own little theories on the subject and want to test them out!

 

By the way, anyone know of some good aem ems tuners in Florida? And the going rates?

 

i spent about $400 for the tune after i got the ems installed. so expect to spent at least that much.

 

dammmmnnn. How much tuning did this consist of? How many pulls, how precise?