thanks for coming in guys , well here is a list of what i'm going to check to make sure the car is good

this is on a 2001 ap1 120k miles s2000

engine
====

-spark plugs to see health
-engine oil and other fluids to see if clear or not
-compression check ( i read a few threads but am left wondering how the coils/wires will be as i've never open a s2k engine before , anyone have picture to illustrate this? where is the fuel and ignition fuses located at and do i ahve to pull both?


- what noise etc or feeling that shows bad signs ( bogging?)
- coolant check ( oil film in coolant means headgasket is gone right?)


transmission
========
- rear diff changed to 02 one ( is it possible?)
- go through all the gears in accel and cruising and idle
- any noise i should note or feeling that it is bad?
-how to know if lsd is good or bad?


body
===
- no rust
- straight frame
- all body panels align like factory
- does honda have a vin sticker on all the original panels? ( so i know if it
is crashed before or not)
- original paint and do magnetic test to see bondo places
- suspension ( how to make sure they are good?)


electrical
======
- ac/heater
- keyless entry
- power window
- power top
- stereo
- wipers
- lights



thanks a lot guys , the above is what i will check and those with "?" will need help from experts here.

if there is anything else specific to a 2001 s2000 that i should worry about pls help me to add it in or something.


really hope to get one clean nice one.

car is clean title , no mechanical problem for $12,500 . is that a good price? or what is a good price u guys would offer for this car?


hope to hear from everyone of you[

 

Mileage is high, but after all this is a Honda, and if it has been properly maintained it should be good for another 120K.

Besides wanting to see the documented maintenance history of the car, one of my major concerns would be knowing if the engine has been over-revved. Not over-revving by hitting the fuel cut-off at red line, but by accidentally over-revving the engine during a missed shift while accelerating and going from 3rd to 2nd, instead of the intended 3rd to 4th. This type of scenario can cause unseen and potentially catastrophic damage that may eventually result in engine failure.

You may wish to post this question in the Under the Hood forum, or check out the FAQs:

clickie --> FAQs, DIYs, etc.

 

compression check is a good idea. Do a search in Under the hood forum for a write up.

Its possible to swap any year diff in, but 02 is identical to 01.

all panels have a VIN, most of them you won't be able to see though

 

so like the front fenders and bumper have vin sticker on it? where are they located?

thanks for the help guys well the car is not cmoking according to the seller.

so if say the compression checks out good (above 200psi each cylinder) will it be a good buy for $12k guys?

pls pls help

 

no one else can help guys?

how do u check if the diff is good or not?

 

Without an extremely thorough inspection, which I think is probably unneeded but would need to discuss some topics with the owner to be more confident first, you can't tell much more than what you already listed.

As for the diff, the only way beyond driving the car and making sure it isn't doing anything odd [hopefully this isn't the 1st S you've ever driven] is draining the oil and analyzing it. If you are willing to replace the owner's fluid with one of his choice than maybe he'll go for it. Even then, there is no guarantee.

That being said, I'd focus more on driving it hard and making sure
A) The transmission doesn't have any issues/noises/scratches going in to any gear at any rpm. Don't get arrested during the test drive.
B) COMPLETE compression AND leakdown test. It's possible to maintain excellent compression but poor leak down figures. That forshadows future issues.

You can check to make sure none of the shocks are leaking and that the tread on the tires is wearing correctly to diagnose the condition of the suspension.

The receipts for maint. and demeanor of the owner will probably be just as revealing as a good test drive.

 

wow good info there sahtt, thanks a lot

i know compression test but i do not know how to perform a leakdown test , can u kinda describe to me how and what tools are needed?

so for trans/diff as long as no grind , noise , scratch , buzz etc at any rpm range then it should be alright correct?

where is the fuse for fuel pump and ignition located for my compression test?