Proper shifting technique
Question about proper shifting technique
This article online says:
In explaining how to change up through the 'box, I'm going to assume that you'll move the gearstick correctly, as described above - most importantly, including that essential pause in the neutral phase.
The most important aspect of changing up correctly is what you do with the accelerator pedal. A lot of drivers will press the clutch and completely release the accelerator pedal whilst they change gear. They will then release the clutch prior to re-applying the accelerator. This technique will usually result in the car jerking forward when the clutch is released because the engine speed doesn't match the road speed for that gear. This jerk is more pronounced in lower gears than it is in higher gears.
The way to avoid this jerk is to release pressure on the accelerator before and during the gearchange, but not to release it completely. I'll talk you through it.
Lets assume we're about to change up from 2nd to 3rd in an average car, at about 40MPH. In this imaginary average car, the engine will be doing 5000RPM at 40MPH in 2nd gear, and 3000RPM at the same speed in 3rd.
Before you start to change gear, ease off the accelerator slightly so the rate of acceleration slows. Then press the clutch and change gear as described previously. Whilst you're changing gear, ease the accelerator back until the revs have dropped from 5000 to 3000, and then hold the revs there whilst you release the clutch. Once you've released it, squeeze the accelerator, and continue accelerating. Allowing the revs to drop correctly will remove that jerkiness from the up-change, and you'll notice the difference immediately.
Changing down is very similar, but the process involves raising, rather than lowering the revs. Racing and competition drivers "blip" the throttle on down-changes to match engine speed to road speed, but I'm talking about road driving, which is slightly different. A blip is only suited to very fast gearchanges, which aren't necessary on the road, so in advanced road driving, the revs are raised during the downchange, and not blipped.
As you're changing gear, squeeze the accelerator gently to raise the revs from 3000 to 5000, release the clutch, and then continue accelerating.
It's taken me ages to explain something which can be done in around a second, and it's far easier to teach by demonstration and then trial and error, than it is to write it out, but I think that's my best explanation.
Have a go tomorrow when you get a chance. Don't just change from 2nd to 3rd - I always get students to drive along a straight piece of road at 50MPH, and change randomly through the 'box, without losing road speed. the gearchange will always be heard, but the point is that it shouldn't be felt.
Then, when you've practiced for a bit, see if anyone notices.
My question is doesn't this put more wear and tear on the clutch than letting go of gas completely?
This article online says:
In explaining how to change up through the 'box, I'm going to assume that you'll move the gearstick correctly, as described above - most importantly, including that essential pause in the neutral phase.
The most important aspect of changing up correctly is what you do with the accelerator pedal. A lot of drivers will press the clutch and completely release the accelerator pedal whilst they change gear. They will then release the clutch prior to re-applying the accelerator. This technique will usually result in the car jerking forward when the clutch is released because the engine speed doesn't match the road speed for that gear. This jerk is more pronounced in lower gears than it is in higher gears.
The way to avoid this jerk is to release pressure on the accelerator before and during the gearchange, but not to release it completely. I'll talk you through it.
Lets assume we're about to change up from 2nd to 3rd in an average car, at about 40MPH. In this imaginary average car, the engine will be doing 5000RPM at 40MPH in 2nd gear, and 3000RPM at the same speed in 3rd.
Before you start to change gear, ease off the accelerator slightly so the rate of acceleration slows. Then press the clutch and change gear as described previously. Whilst you're changing gear, ease the accelerator back until the revs have dropped from 5000 to 3000, and then hold the revs there whilst you release the clutch. Once you've released it, squeeze the accelerator, and continue accelerating. Allowing the revs to drop correctly will remove that jerkiness from the up-change, and you'll notice the difference immediately.
Changing down is very similar, but the process involves raising, rather than lowering the revs. Racing and competition drivers "blip" the throttle on down-changes to match engine speed to road speed, but I'm talking about road driving, which is slightly different. A blip is only suited to very fast gearchanges, which aren't necessary on the road, so in advanced road driving, the revs are raised during the downchange, and not blipped.
As you're changing gear, squeeze the accelerator gently to raise the revs from 3000 to 5000, release the clutch, and then continue accelerating.
It's taken me ages to explain something which can be done in around a second, and it's far easier to teach by demonstration and then trial and error, than it is to write it out, but I think that's my best explanation.
Have a go tomorrow when you get a chance. Don't just change from 2nd to 3rd - I always get students to drive along a straight piece of road at 50MPH, and change randomly through the 'box, without losing road speed. the gearchange will always be heard, but the point is that it shouldn't be felt.
Then, when you've practiced for a bit, see if anyone notices.
My question is doesn't this put more wear and tear on the clutch than letting go of gas completely?
I don't think its necessary to apply any pressure on the gas pedal while shifting up. Its true our cars revs drop very quickly with no load but if you shift fast enough and modulate the clutch appropriately their should be no jerkiness.
I'd imagine it'll put more wear and tear on your clutch if you do what that article says.
I'd imagine it'll put more wear and tear on your clutch if you do what that article says.
That's what I thought, however shifting fast in my 06 gives me that clunky/notchy feedback in 2nd and 3rd gear but if i slow down my shift like woodwork's post says, the revs drop too much and the synchros have to bring up the revs so the car jerks.
I get the same thing in my 2005,this clunkyness from 1st to 2nd and to 3rd. One thing that i do to minimize it is before i shift into second,i move the shifter to the neutral position first,then move it into second,then from second,move the shifter in neutral all the way to he right,then move into third. Kinda a hassle sometimes,but I do this when its cold to minimize the notchyness almost grinding that it feels like. Hope this helps!
I get the same thing in my 2005,this clunkyness from 1st to 2nd and to 3rd. One thing that i do to minimize it is before i shift into second,i move the shifter to the neutral position first,then move it into second,then from second,move the shifter in neutral all the way to he right,then move into third. Kinda a hassle sometimes,but I do this when its cold to minimize the notchyness almost grinding that it feels like. Hope this helps!
At what rpm do you shift when going 1-2-3rd? Usually if you shift around 3-4k even when cold the notchy feeling is almost gone for me, if you shift anywhere below that, it feels like your almost grinding/notchy.
This was a good quote from billman250
"By shifting as if a gear change is one fluid motion...it is not.
A 5-6 shift (all shifts) should be 2 parts.....first part is pulling it out of 5th, and letting it slow the mainshaft with the syncro. Syncro is nothing but a friction brake to slow a moving shaft. Basically holding the shifter against 6th till it wants to go in.
The second part is to pull it into 6th.
This can be done very fast, once you have a feel for it."
I don't know if this is the healthiest technique on the transmission, but... it certainly is the smoothest way ive found through my experiments.
Billman says you're supposed to clutch all the way in, but whenever I do this I never get a good shift. Quick shifting, just past the engagement point leaving about 2-5% throttle. I find the less time you give for the tires to lose torque driven grip, the shakier the re-engagements going to be as it has to sync back up that much more. 75K and I've yet to feel any wear on my clutch or tranny yet
Billman says you're supposed to clutch all the way in, but whenever I do this I never get a good shift. Quick shifting, just past the engagement point leaving about 2-5% throttle. I find the less time you give for the tires to lose torque driven grip, the shakier the re-engagements going to be as it has to sync back up that much more. 75K and I've yet to feel any wear on my clutch or tranny yet
Originally Posted by B0neSt0ck' timestamp='1307077146' post='20644687
I get the same thing in my 2005,this clunkyness from 1st to 2nd and to 3rd. One thing that i do to minimize it is before i shift into second,i move the shifter to the neutral position first,then move it into second,then from second,move the shifter in neutral all the way to he right,then move into third. Kinda a hassle sometimes,but I do this when its cold to minimize the notchyness almost grinding that it feels like. Hope this helps!
At what rpm do you shift when going 1-2-3rd? Usually if you shift around 3-4k even when cold the notchy feeling is almost gone for me, if you shift anywhere below that, it feels like your almost grinding/notchy.
This was a good quote from billman250
"By shifting as if a gear change is one fluid motion...it is not.
A 5-6 shift (all shifts) should be 2 parts.....first part is pulling it out of 5th, and letting it slow the mainshaft with the syncro. Syncro is nothing but a friction brake to slow a moving shaft. Basically holding the shifter against 6th till it wants to go in.
The second part is to pull it into 6th.
This can be done very fast, once you have a feel for it."
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