Thank you! Finally someone said what I was thinking.

Don't AP2's run a little lean with a full exhaust? Or is it with a full exhaust and an intake? I'm sure that his power and torque will look great after he gets tuned on either K-Pro or AEM EMS.

 

Not to get everyone off topic here, but I've seen Greddy E-manage, a Hondata unit, and the AEM system mentioned. Are all pretty well equal or does one outshine the other?

 

Nothing wrong with a S/C, especially for those of us with MY06+ who are fortunate enough to have a tunable ecu.

Its a quick bolt on and go 360whp
premapped reflash (no additional tuning necessary)
Less likely to overheat on track
Reliable, tested power
Yes S/C's do not make "insane" amounts of power, but its good for up to 400whp. Anything above 400whp is not functional, you will never see traction on the track.

This is not a forced induction forum so im done with the S/C bit.

The point I'm driving, is the fact that this car made zero gains for $6900. If it was me, I would cut my losses sell and move on to something that adds value even if i had to take a $1K hit in the process. If these parts added even 5whp you can justify that it added something, but no gain at all is really worth $6900?

I dont mind spending money for high quality parts that add value. I paid about $1500 all in for my T1R-EM dual exhaust (tested and verified 10-15whp gain), and $300 for my Asura HFC. But to pay $6900 and add zero value to the car is just insane.

 

I think we all got your point 5 posts ago.

 

 

No. The AEM and Hondata are standalone systems (complete ECUs that replace your factory ECU), while the Greddy E-manage Ulitimate (the one you would want, not the regular E-manage) is a piggyback system -- it piggybacks off of your stock ECU.

My feeling is that the Greddy EMU is fine for 90% of people w/ s2ks out there - you can run the vast majority of N/A setups, plus simple turbo and supercharger setups -- as my engine builder put it, when you need a standalone, you'll know. They are much more expensive, harder to tune, and have little problems that pop up with standalones that don't pop up with piggybacks (like cold starts and idle problems).

First, I would get your exhaust leak fixed on the cat - by the shop that messed it up in the first place - and then make sure there are no other problems with your car.

 

I may be way off here, but if my engine had not arrived at the propper temperature for vtec engagement, could that have effected the dyno read out? Would I have even posted the numbers I did had it not been at the standard operating temperature? I am obviously no expert on the matter, so forgive me if my question is rediculous, but I'm blindlessly trying to come up w/ a solution here.

 

No, you wouldn't be able to rev into VTEC if it wasn't warmed up enough, so that's not the cause.

 

The entire team at Bulletproof strongly believe that resetting the ECU and then dynoing it immediately after could be the cause of the low numbers.

From my 9 years of personal experience with Hondas, and from what I have learned, the ECU needs time to relearn its settings after a reset. I have heard that it takes even up to 30 minutes to learn new trim settings.

-Colin

 

Within the next two weeks I'll have (hopefully) some new numbers to post.