F24 Build
kial,
Do you have a baseline dyno chart on the same dyno to see what the gains were?
This is a very interesting upgrade. While I would love a KW SC, the cost is prohibitive right now (and for a long time to come). This setup looks to be a relatively low cost mod that gains usable broad torque.
Anyone know how much a builder normally charges to assemble everything assuming I provide the major pieces (crank, pistons, rods)?
Oh, and this may sound like a stupid question, but is a standalone EMS absolutely necessary? Or is it only required for max gains? Just wondering if the OEM ECU would be able to compensate for the additional displacement.
Thanks.
Do you have a baseline dyno chart on the same dyno to see what the gains were?
This is a very interesting upgrade. While I would love a KW SC, the cost is prohibitive right now (and for a long time to come). This setup looks to be a relatively low cost mod that gains usable broad torque.
Anyone know how much a builder normally charges to assemble everything assuming I provide the major pieces (crank, pistons, rods)?
Oh, and this may sound like a stupid question, but is a standalone EMS absolutely necessary? Or is it only required for max gains? Just wondering if the OEM ECU would be able to compensate for the additional displacement.
Thanks.
No, I don't have a baseline dyno. It is a little lower cost than some forced induction kits but to really tell how much, you would need to price all the parts of this build and then add the cost of labor and installation (I have no idea how much either would cost, unfortunately).
In terms of the ecu, I would not run this engine on a stock ecu. You are adding 400cc of displacement and you will be running really lean if you do not compensate in some way. I'm not sure if you would be able to get buy with some more budget friendly like a Greddy emanage ultimate, I didn't really do any research on them since I knew what I wanted fairly early on, but there are some guys on here who swear by them. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
In terms of the ecu, I would not run this engine on a stock ecu. You are adding 400cc of displacement and you will be running really lean if you do not compensate in some way. I'm not sure if you would be able to get buy with some more budget friendly like a Greddy emanage ultimate, I didn't really do any research on them since I knew what I wanted fairly early on, but there are some guys on here who swear by them. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
I have a 2.2L, but it will still probably be extremely lean like you said with a displacement increase of 200cc. I don't have much faith in piggybacks since they're only "working" when the ecu's in open loop, which would worry me for all the time I'm driving normally.
I priced out the TSX crank, H22 pistons (with wrist pins, rings, etc.), and H22 rods...pretty cheap (relative to other big mods). Just not sure how much labor would be. Guess I'll ask a few local shops. Given it's a dynapack, your dyno seems to indicate somewhere ~300bhp and ~215tq...very nice on stock cams. The $1800 for an EMS is a big cost tho.
Thanks for the help!
I priced out the TSX crank, H22 pistons (with wrist pins, rings, etc.), and H22 rods...pretty cheap (relative to other big mods). Just not sure how much labor would be. Guess I'll ask a few local shops. Given it's a dynapack, your dyno seems to indicate somewhere ~300bhp and ~215tq...very nice on stock cams. The $1800 for an EMS is a big cost tho.
Thanks for the help!
JSR_AP2,
I just got this build done and I think I can answer a few of your questions. I got two different prices for my build ranging from 800-900. The machine work for the block was another 400-500(for removing 4mm from the rods and new tangs for the crank). My block was in good shape and threw a rod bearing. If you have to resleeve a block or get machine work done to it, figure extra for that. And be generous when you are estimating.
Also, save yourself $400 and get a crank from a newer accord/element/crv. They are REALLY, REALLY similar.
Labor depends on which shop and how much they charge per hour. The place that built my motor wanted to charge me $80/hr for labor. My personal mechanic charged me half that. If you know someone that can pull your motor out and REALLY take care of it, go with them. My guy took care of my trans, all the sensors and plugs and was just generally really knowledgeable.
The E-manage is the least you should get in terms of engine management. I opted for a KPro because it starts up and runs like stock, like a Honda ecu should. I know the KPro is expensive, but if you look at the cost of other tuneable ecus, the price is similar and it has a LOT of features. You can opt for other piggybacks, but don't even try to run this on your stock ecu. Your money will be wasted. Also, you will need larger injectors for this build. Kyle opted for +600cc, I'm doing 410cc from the RDX. Last, find a reputable and experienced tuner! Most shops make you sign a waiver saying if your motor gets blown up, it's not their fault!
Alright this post is getting out of control. PM me or Kial for any other questions!
I just got this build done and I think I can answer a few of your questions. I got two different prices for my build ranging from 800-900. The machine work for the block was another 400-500(for removing 4mm from the rods and new tangs for the crank). My block was in good shape and threw a rod bearing. If you have to resleeve a block or get machine work done to it, figure extra for that. And be generous when you are estimating.
Also, save yourself $400 and get a crank from a newer accord/element/crv. They are REALLY, REALLY similar.
Labor depends on which shop and how much they charge per hour. The place that built my motor wanted to charge me $80/hr for labor. My personal mechanic charged me half that. If you know someone that can pull your motor out and REALLY take care of it, go with them. My guy took care of my trans, all the sensors and plugs and was just generally really knowledgeable.
The E-manage is the least you should get in terms of engine management. I opted for a KPro because it starts up and runs like stock, like a Honda ecu should. I know the KPro is expensive, but if you look at the cost of other tuneable ecus, the price is similar and it has a LOT of features. You can opt for other piggybacks, but don't even try to run this on your stock ecu. Your money will be wasted. Also, you will need larger injectors for this build. Kyle opted for +600cc, I'm doing 410cc from the RDX. Last, find a reputable and experienced tuner! Most shops make you sign a waiver saying if your motor gets blown up, it's not their fault!
Alright this post is getting out of control. PM me or Kial for any other questions!
I got my crank from a salvage yard. You can put out feelers to various yards through car-part.com or check majectic honda for a new oem crank. As for the injectors, check rc engineerings site. They have an injector sizing calculator which will show the difference.
Are there any differences between the TSX/Accord/CRV cranks? I can order a brand new K24 crank off of majestic honda for only $220.
Also Kial, I'm curious as to when you're gonna get your cams on!!
Also Kial, I'm curious as to when you're gonna get your cams on!!


