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the k24 cranks are all the same, with the exception of the tsx crank. i've read somewhere that they are SLIGHTLY different, but they all need to be modified the same way to fit our blocks. the k24 cranks all come with that cool, black coating like the cranks in our F motors. I think I ordered an accord one for mine and its working great for my build...
Originally Posted by kial007,Feb 17 2008, 07:07 PM
I just finished swapping out the necessary parts to run a Kpro and I decided to post some pics so everyone can see what's it takes. I had the luxury of my engine being on a stand but it would be a major pita to do all this with the engine still in the car. Also, the instructions on Hondata's website state to simply remove the timing cover and later reinstall. It really is not this easy since the cover is sandwiched vertically between the head and oil pan. I was able to remove the cover fairly easy but when I went to reinstall it, I realized that unless I wanted to really force it back in I would have to pull the oil pan. I don't claim that this is the only way to do this nor do I claim it is the best way, I just wanted to show others how I did this.
1) Remove the crank pulley.
2) Remove the timing cover.
3) Remove gasket material from the timing cover and the block.
4) Remove existing crank sensor wheel.
Here's a comparison between the existing and new crank sensor wheels.
5) Install the new crank sensor wheel. Notice one side is marked "Outside".
6) Apply new liquid gasket to the timing cover and reinstall.
7) Remove valve cover and, while holding exhaust camshaft in place with a wrench, remove the hexnut in the end (reverse thread) and remove the TDC wheel.
Here is a side by side of the existing and new TDC wheel.
8) Apply thread lock to the bolt and install the new wheel.
9) Remove existing crank sensor and install new sensor. (Sorry I don't have more pics of this but I didn't have an existing sensor to replace since this is a new build.)
Once the new valve cover is powdercoated I will post pic of the rest.
helpful since I'm going to be installing these parts soon. Anybody else on here that has experiences/tips when doing this with the motor in the car? Also did everyone have to pull the oil pan or is it possible to replace the cover without dropping the pan?
is this build reliable enough for a everyday driver? say somone who puts 15-20K a year on their car? I am curious because of the increased load on the sidewall.
hey i'm a new owner, i've been checking out this thread and gzob's thread and am pretty interested in this setup. one thing i'm wondering, in order to keep the oil squirters, gzob machined the piston skirts and resleeved the block. but i'm assuming that you can't machine the piston skirts of the mahle gold series pistons and still use them with the stock FRM sleeves. is there any way you can keep both the stock sleeves and the oil squirters? or would it be too much work and easier to just resleeve the block and use different pistons?
