thats nuts subscribed..

 

It should be possible since the bores are the same and you use a completely different crank.

 

While my head is at the machine shop, I used another head I have to check valve to piston clearance. I wanted to ensure that with the dome on my pistons and the cams I'm using that I don't start my engine and immediately bend a bunch of valves. So I clayed my pistons, bolted everything together (in time of course), and the valves didn't even touch the clay. The valve reliefs on the pistons are more than adequate, even with the increase lift and duration of my cams. So it looks like everything is set for go.

I did find there was one other modification needed in order for the K24 crank to work. The keyway which locks the pulley and sprocket to the crank needed to be shortened. I updated the original post.

 

Awsome. Interesting project.

I want to undertake a project. Something. Thought about a 2zz swap into a MR2 spyder, SC'ing my S, but this sounds great.

Another positive about it is for those companies that jack your insurance if you put an SC on it, you can have a pretty stealthy engine with Emanage under the drivers seat and no one would know it's not stock.

Much luck.

 

whats the machining required for the k24 crank to work?

 

There is round lip inside the flywheel bolt holes on the K24 crank which needs to be removed. This lip is used to center and mount a flywheel on a K24 but a F20C crank does not have one. This pic shows the K24 crank (right) after being machined. The lip was right on the edge of the center hole. Unfortunately, I no longer have a pic of the lip prior to being machined to show what it looks like.

 

does anybody know if the cranks from the k24 motors are all the same? I'm reading the bore and strokes are the same, but the compression ratios are different. There are some bottom ends from elements I would purchase, but I guess I need to know if the cranks from the elements or accords are usable in this build.

 

i'm glad someone is finally doing this.

it would be great if a manufacturer had a kit when all is said and done.

 

You might check K20A.org or a Honda dealer, they might be able to tell you if Honda used the same part and badged it with different part numbers for different cars.

 

Kial, glad to see you made the necessary mods on the snout to make everything work up front.

When you clay'd the top end, did you manually engage Vtec or did you just rotate the motor normally? You may want to engage Vtec by locking the the IN and EX rocker pin. PM me if you want more details.

Jei