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Originally Posted by BlackTrax,Nov 25 2007, 07:27 PM
Kial, glad to see you made the necessary mods on the snout to make everything work up front.
When you clay'd the top end, did you manually engage Vtec or did you just rotate the motor normally? You may want to engage Vtec by locking the the IN and EX rocker pin. PM me if you want more details.
Jei
I did not engage vtec, I didn't even think about it until after I disassembled everything. To make myself feel better, I measured the amount of clay on the domes and then measured the difference in lift of the vtec lobe over a regular lobe and there was still plenty of room. It's crude but I didn't feel like putting it back together. I do plan on claying it again to measure clearance w/ vtec, I was just lazy that day.
Originally Posted by kial007,Nov 25 2007, 10:15 PM
I did not engage vtec, I didn't even think about it until after I disassembled everything. To make myself feel better, I measured the amount of clay on the domes and then measured the difference in lift of the vtec lobe over a regular lobe and there was still plenty of room. It's crude but I didn't feel like putting it back together. I do plan on claying it again to measure clearance w/ vtec, I was just lazy that day.
I got my head back from the machine shop. I had it pressure checked, decked, and new seats installed. I also had the intake ports and manifold gasket matched (I'll explain why this was a rash decision made while talking to the machinist about flow). After all this was done I found out that I needed new valves because there was not enough material on the edge of the valves to seat properly, so I ordered a new set which arrived today.
While I was waiting on the valves, I remembered that I have access to a head porting kit so I decided to make use out of it. Using small diameter cartridge rolls, I smoothed out the casting marks of the exhaust ports while being extremely carefully not to change the size or shape of the port. Then using scotchbrite-like wheels for my Dremel, I polished them smooth using progressively finer grit wheels. They are really smooth but not as smooth as if I had used a buff and compound.
Then I moved to the intake side. For these ports I used 40 grit then 80 grit cartridge rolls to smooth out the casting marks while again being extremely careful not to enlarge or change the shape of the ports.
After I finished the intake ports I realized that I paid someone to gasket match my ports, when I could have easily done it myself. Anyway, tonight I lapped in my valves and installed my dual valve springs, bases, and retainers (all Skunk 2). Then, since the deck of my head was milled very slightly, I clayed my pistons again to check valve to piston clearance. This time I manually engaged vtec and there was no contact, even with the Skunk 2 stage II cams I'm using. So this weekend, it all gets assembled. More pics to come.
I bolted my head on yesterday but now I have to wait for a new timing chain idler gear. After I bolted the cam caps down I noticed that two of the teeth on the idler gear were chipped. Good thing it happened now and not when I started the engine.