Caveat:
I have searched, I have researched, I have done what I can do. I know nothing about Honda engines (former BMW guy) and need help. Unlike most of these threads, I have specific criteria that should make this a more useful endeavor. That being said, I'm sure someone will flame me. Thanks in advance for that.

This is my DD. Car has 75k miles, about 90% are highway. Former owner rarely drove the car in the upper RPM range, so engine has a good amount of life remaining.

For now, I think the suspension is fine. Once I get a few track days in the car, I'll decide what needs changing. Right now, I'm happy with how it handles. My M3 was ~240whp, and I'd like to get a bit closer to that number with the s2k for the sole purpose of personal enjoyment while daily driving. I don't drag the car, I don't street race. I will track it, but not for another 8 months after my wife and I have moved across country and are settled. Therefore, please don't mention things like driving school, a roll bar, seats, etc. That will come in time, but not now. All I want is a bit more NA pep.

Everything on the car is stock, so it's a clean slate. Here is what I want:
- As it's a DD, I would like to have a bit more midrange torque (I'm realistic in my expectations...)
- As it's a DD, I want it to be as reliable as stock and not significantly louder
- As a MY00, I want to take advantage of the more conservative tune and unlock some latent power throughout the power band

So far, here is what I am considering based on my research:
- Piggyback: either VAFC II or e-manage ultimate. Leaning towards the latter due to timing control
- Intake: K&N FIPK
- Krankvents
- 70mm header-back custom piping w/ silencer
- Randy's gears
- A really good tuner to make it all come together (I'm in the Raleigh/Durham area. Suggestions within a 5 hour radius are welcomed, particularly someone who can tune the EU)

Haven't read much about headers. ITBs and cams are out of the equation, as is anything else major. One other thing is I'll need to be able to revert to CARB-legal w/o too much difficulty.

The problem with the above is everything I mentioned exceeds my budget (I have a little give, but not much). What I am asking is for advice on complementary products that can give me what I'm after given my above goals and criteria and for suggestions for other products I did not mention. I also would like recommendations on good vendors for buying this stuff. I knew who these folks were in the BMW world, but as I said, I am completely new to Honda.

To those who are willing to help out, I really appreciate it.

Thanks,
John

 

Hmmmm.... First of all, what year is your car? Since you have 75k miles on the clock, I assume it is an AP1 (2000-2003), in which case making 240whp will require a car that is probably going to be significantly louder than stock if you stay N/A. That being said, there are a few ways to approach your goal, and you are on the right track.

1) Krank vents are nice, but will not do a whole lot in terms of noticable power gain. Still good to have though.
2) There is no intake on this car that will really produce a noticable power gain, but a good intake will increase your throttle response and thus make driving the car more fun. Some of the more pricey ones (J's Racing, ASM) have special chambers that store air so that it's ready for you when you hit the throttle, which really minimizes throttle response time. For a compromise, I *think* (someone will definately correct me if I'm wrong) the Comptech intake has a similar chamber that stores the air, look into it (although you will have to buy it used).
3) 70mm exhaust is the best size for picking up hp on N/A S2000s, but there are not a lot of options if you want to stay quiet. The ASM exhaust sounds amazing, I do not like loud exhausts either so I would reccomend that if you want the best of both worlds, but it's pricey as well.
I have a J's 60RS exhaust, it's one of the lightest exhausts made for S2000s (full titanium) and sounds basically like stock until you hit VTEC, then it opens up but is still only marginally louder than stock. Also, there is practically no drone with the exhaust, and it makes good power gains, so I would reccomend that for a somewhat cheaper alternative.
4) I would definately take a E-manage Ultimate over a VAFC, VAFCs are for people who do not have enough money to tune their car correctly. HKS Fcon-V or Fcon-iS are even better systems (while still being piggyback) but it's difficult to find a tuner in the US for those if you don't live in Cali. Hondata has a very nice solution out, it's basically a fully-programable (like an AEM EMS) system that retains the factory ECU (albeit from an RSX), so it's the best of both worlds, but it will be right at the top of your budget BEFORE tuning. Whatever you pick, get something for tuning that does timing as that's where you will really extract power on S2000s, and that way you can do it safely.
5) Gears are amazing. A set of 4.77s might be too much for you if you drive the car a lot on the highway, but a set of 4.57s should be fine and will definately make your car quicker. Mazda makes the gear set, and you can get them out of an old RX-7 for much cheaper than Rick's sells them. Get a pro to install them.

Sorry this was so long, I just rambled a little and I don't wanna delete it! All in all, I would say that gears are the best idea for a first mod, the car will definately be more responsive and quicker. A tune is a great idea as well, you can pick up 15-20whp in the midrange with a good tune. Plus if you do gears you will either need something like a Hondata or AEM EMS, or a yellow box to fix your VSS so your spedo reads correctly. Good luck!

 

Since your price limit is $1500 you can basically do only one thing. Since you want daily driver with reasonable noise, it rules out single exhausts. I also have the J's 60RS which is probably one of the quietest singles and it does resonate right in the DD rpm range which reduces my DD enjoyment of the car. It sounds great and quieter at 9k RPM on the track though.

I would recommend the E-manage Ultimate, harness and tune which puts you at around $1500. Some power gain with no DD penalties. Here is a link to what looks like a stock pre-'04 car with an AEM type intake.
http://ballisticmotorsports.org/osc/S2000%...ltimate%20.html

While most will disagree, the second thing I would do is the header. Really no noise penalty with a 5-10 HP gain in the midrange. From the dyno's I've seen the Mugen, Toda and J's are worthwhile. I have the Toda and it does have a noticable effect from 4-7k RPM on the butt and chassis dyno.

IMO gears would be good idea only after you do some track time and figure out the car. It seems like most people get addicted to the feel of the extra thrust, but don't really care if the gears run out quicker. Mismatched gearing to a particular track could suck, so IMO it's kind of a crap shoot. It might be good for DD, except for the increased highway RPM. Since it is 90% highway for you, running at 5k in six gear might be annoying, especially coming from a BMW.

 

Start with Rick's 4.57 gears and add the Mugen N1 ECU. Most people will not recommend this setup. But most people didn't have an e36 M3 as a prior car like myself either.

 

I agree with the gears suggestion. But at your price point...that would be about your only mod. But it's probably the best one to make the car feel and accelerate better.

Later, when you can afford more...the e-manage ultimate if you need to quickly/easily return to stock for inspection.

However, I'll also suggest if you do have an ap1 and are still on the oem 16" rims, you should probably start saving for some 17" rims...getting really good tires for the 16" rims is getting tough and will probably get even tougher in the future.

Former e36M3 owner here as well.

 

Thanks for all of the input everyone. I am intrigued by gears but also want to make sure that's a good move given my future track days and daily driving. Running at 5k RPM on the highway seems like it could get annoying after a while. Not so sure that's something I'd want to deal with every day.

I have heard from several people that a well tuned e-manage ultimate on a MY00 can unlock up to 20whp. The graph linked by Fongu is small, but it looks like it further validates a nice bump in power with a good tune.

Perhaps I go with tune and intake and figure out gears down the road. How does the AEM compare with the K&N? And what is an "AEM type" intake? The only thing with tuning/piggyback is I worry about finding a very competent tuner with expertise with the e-manage ultimate. Would hate to drop a grand and not be able to get my money's worth.

17" wheels are something I can deal with when I need new tires. Right now, I have brand new tires from the prior owner, so I'll finish those off before thinking about anything new.

 

Gears are tricky. Most people who drive their cars on the street with highway driving like the 4.57s, I know that AJ-R uses lots of different gear ratios but I remember them saying that the 4.44s were the best all-around for track duty in their opinion, indifferent of particular tracks.

Someone talking about an AEM-type intake is probably talking about the kind of intake with a pipe that drops down in behind the front bumper with an open filter connected to it, as opposed to a "snorkel-type" intake like J's Racing or Mugen uses, or a short-ram intake like Comptech.

Keep in mind that the intake (next to the krank vents) will probably do the least for you, so I would not really make that a priority unless you are going to show the car and want to spice up the engine bay.

 

Use the following to determine where your rpm will be for the gears you are considering:

http://www.turnzero.com/technical_resource...gear_calculator

I can tell you that you do get used to running at higher rpms all the time. 80mph is about 4300rpm in 6th for an ap1...with 4.56 gears, that jumps to 4800rpm.

For an intake...zbrew is correct...not a lot of gain to be had. Probably the most cost effective is to gut the oem box and pick up a Spoon knock-off snorkle from eBay...fiberglass versions are about $100. The AEM style intakes do have one drawback you should be aware of...hydrolock. The position of the filter puts it in danger of sucking water either when driving through a large puddle or from just sitting in the rain (there are drain holes that drip right on the filter). There are some fixes that reduce, but not elimiante, the risk.

 

I think you'd be most happy installing Rick's 4.56's. These gears will make the car much more lively to drive, and at 75k it's good insurance to rebuild the diff anyway, as these are prone to breakage.
-gears +/- $600
-install kit ~ $150
-installation +/-$300
-Comptech reinforced housing $400 if still available. If not, get an '04 housing (i think $300)

Buy this 1st because you'll probably break it anyway down the road.