Amuse Boy

Not for bragging rights at all. It won't be an absolute perfect tune but then again it will be safe option otherwise why would J's racing offer their ECU.

They have told me to list my mods and mileage etc and they will send me the most appropriate map to suit my car.

I have sent them a heap of questions and am currently awaiting their reply.

I don't want to go down the route of getting a custom ECU as I don't know of any tuners that I would trust with my car.

I suppose I could get the VAFC II but again I am not familiar with tuning it and I would probably need to get my car on a dyno.

My main objkective is to have the car running safely with the mods I have as I intend to keep the car for a while. More power with the ECU would be an added bonus.

Thanks for your help though

Xplosiv

I have similar mods as you, Mugen intake, J's TB, Mugen header, amuse straight pipe, amuse dual and I have been running the Mugen ECU for 2 years now. The midrange has definitely been improved, there was a noticeable torque increase in the pre-VTEC RPM ranges. I didnt feel too much difference after VETC. Now I am just used to the setup, I cannot compare it from stock.

I raced my buddy with I/H/E setup and I would start to pull on him slowly after the 3rd gear.

Hope this helps a little.

Amuse Boy

It all helps xpslosiv Many thanks

When using the straight pipe - what do you do withe o2 sensor - did you just disconnect it?

Xplosiv

Yes, it was what I did. With the aftermarket ECU, the CEL wont lite up.

AndyDoh

Dan @ Jakan Honda

Amuse Boy

Thanks xplosiv

Andy - Jakan has shut down now...

AndyDoh

I know! but Dan will still be available if you give him a call

Amuse Boy

Thanks to everyone who helped

I have now ordered:

Denso Iridium IK24 plugs
J's straight pipe
J's N1 ECU

For everyone elses benefit, here are a few questions and answers I got from J's Racing:

What is the VTEC rpm point with J's ECU?
On the map it should be 5,450rpm. But genuine mater have a margin of error depending on the status of use. So it sometime doesn't display like that. If such is the case, please be forewarned.

Is the knock sensor cut?
The knock sensor is not cut. We think knock sensor is absolutely essential for the street user. The genuine knock sensor is very sensitive to the changes in setting and it delays the beginning of ignition fire. If it delayed 10 degree, it down the power lots. Then it decreases by half for the advantage of exchanging the ECU. We change the MAP of ECU and decreases the level of lag of the tide 3 degree.

What fuel should I use?
We recommend High octane, octane rating 100.

And his comments are:
The middle range torque of your current S has powered up because of J's manifold, so if you don't change the MAP, it doesn't have enough safe margin, we think. Therefore, if you change the MAP, you can get safe margin. It has your all range of torque and power improved.

Xplosiv

good pick indeed, let us know your impression when you install the ECU.

Xd

Good thread AB, think we will need to compare/meet up for a RR day. For the others my car is set up with Mugen cooling Mods, CAI, Manifold, Exhaust and ECU so I have been listening intentley.

I am still a little perplexed as to why they would disable the knocking sensor in the Mugen ECU though, that sounds a pretty important safety feature. If its oversensative why not just change it rather than disable it

Octane is another worry for me, reading up on the thread though 98 Octane seems fine I guess?