2011 Track Junkie Thread
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 3,641
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
I agree, with Carbotech suggestion and ducting.
I'd do SS lines just because. You will probably have to go through your brake system anyways (new pads, rotors, fluid)
Community Organizer
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 16,673
Likes: 729
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by WhiteSSP' timestamp='1311637724' post='20814418
Sup MA guys,
This is the plan right now:
Hard dog rollbar (single diag + bolt in harness bar as I'd like to keep the interior...its my daily driver)
Hawk HP+ pads (same pads I ran on the miata)
Stainless lines
Saner front bar
AP2 wheels + RA1's
This is the plan right now:
Hard dog rollbar (single diag + bolt in harness bar as I'd like to keep the interior...its my daily driver)
Hawk HP+ pads (same pads I ran on the miata)
Stainless lines
Saner front bar
AP2 wheels + RA1's
reading fail. Sorry.. Ignore my stupidity. you will def need carbotechs.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,593
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Congrats on the podium finish Matt!
While the weekend is still fresh in your mind fill out this VIR debrief form and then review it before you run there again:
http://robrobinette.com/misc/Track_Debrief_VIR.pdf
While the weekend is still fresh in your mind fill out this VIR debrief form and then review it before you run there again:
http://robrobinette.com/misc/Track_Debrief_VIR.pdf
It turns out my best time was good enough for 2nd place in both TTB AND TTA this past weekend. Something is wrong with the car classing.
Maybe I will just sign up for TTB for August....
Former Moderator
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 4,634
Likes: 28
From: West Virginia
I'm not sure what...if anything... really needs to be done to get this car on track safely (other than a roll bar of course) and reliably.
I wouldn't wait on the brake lines. Your stock lines are 9 years old and running an S in NASA HPDE 3 you're going to stress the brakes, especially without cooling ducts.
Here's my take on slowly moving the S2000 from bone stock to race car: http://robrobinette.com/S2000TrackEvolv.htm
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,337
Likes: 1
From: Gods Speed #57 Lemons #77
As mentioned, get some serious track pads like XP10/XP8. Ducts will extend the life of your rotors (which will crack so check them often). Good brake fluid like Motul RB600 is nice.
If you run nonstaggered, get front swaybar. If you run staggered then you don't need a front swaybar. Front swaybar is a staggered, BS autoX thing (or non staggered autoX/track thing).
NT01R are better and last almost as long as RA1s, (also no need to shave tires). You can use unshaved RA1s on a Miata (I had one) but they do not work on an S2000 (extra weight and power mean terrible tread squirm).
I would also recommend a 5/6 pt harness and a HANs if you are in NASA Group 3. Your speeds will be much higher in the S2000 compared to your Miata.
If you run nonstaggered, get front swaybar. If you run staggered then you don't need a front swaybar. Front swaybar is a staggered, BS autoX thing (or non staggered autoX/track thing).
NT01R are better and last almost as long as RA1s, (also no need to shave tires). You can use unshaved RA1s on a Miata (I had one) but they do not work on an S2000 (extra weight and power mean terrible tread squirm).
I would also recommend a 5/6 pt harness and a HANs if you are in NASA Group 3. Your speeds will be much higher in the S2000 compared to your Miata.
Sup MA guys,
Figured this was as good as spot as any to ask this. Looking to track my 03 S2000 (45k miles, currently bone stock) early next year. Sold my track Miata/trailer/truck earlier this year to get out of it, but I'm miserable without the track. The go fast crack pipe is too addicting. Anyway, I'm not sure what...if anything... really needs to be done to get this car on track safely (other than a roll bar of course) and reliably. My next event would have been my first in HPDE3 (with NASA) in the miata before I decided to sell it. That car was mildly modded (stock 183k mile drivetrain, 225 RA1's, Koni Race's/Ground Control 800f/450r springs, stock swaybars). This is the plan right now:
Hard dog rollbar (single diag + bolt in harness bar as I'd like to keep the interior...its my daily driver)
Hawk HP+ pads (same pads I ran on the miata)
Stainless lines
Saner front bar
AP2 wheels + RA1's
I'll probably do the first few sessions on street tires to learn the car before jumping into RA1's.
Any suggestions as to anything additional/different? Is the front bar needed on a track car or is that an autocross-biased item?
I'm in Norfolk, VA btw, so this will basically be for VIR, Summit Point, NCCAR, and occaisionally (if I want to tape up my entire car) the "driftwater" track in Moyock.
Figured this was as good as spot as any to ask this. Looking to track my 03 S2000 (45k miles, currently bone stock) early next year. Sold my track Miata/trailer/truck earlier this year to get out of it, but I'm miserable without the track. The go fast crack pipe is too addicting. Anyway, I'm not sure what...if anything... really needs to be done to get this car on track safely (other than a roll bar of course) and reliably. My next event would have been my first in HPDE3 (with NASA) in the miata before I decided to sell it. That car was mildly modded (stock 183k mile drivetrain, 225 RA1's, Koni Race's/Ground Control 800f/450r springs, stock swaybars). This is the plan right now:
Hard dog rollbar (single diag + bolt in harness bar as I'd like to keep the interior...its my daily driver)
Hawk HP+ pads (same pads I ran on the miata)
Stainless lines
Saner front bar
AP2 wheels + RA1's
I'll probably do the first few sessions on street tires to learn the car before jumping into RA1's.
Any suggestions as to anything additional/different? Is the front bar needed on a track car or is that an autocross-biased item?
I'm in Norfolk, VA btw, so this will basically be for VIR, Summit Point, NCCAR, and occaisionally (if I want to tape up my entire car) the "driftwater" track in Moyock.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,593
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One quick comment about Carbotech RP2s.
They performed very well this weekend at VIR. No scoring, no appreciable pad wear, no pad deposits. They do wear the rotors faster than XP10.
The pads do deposit on the rotor during street driving, but it gets ground off after a track session.
So, RP2 bad on street, good on track, hard on rotors. If you run stock rotors they are probably worth it, if not and your rotors are $$$, probably not worth it.
They performed very well this weekend at VIR. No scoring, no appreciable pad wear, no pad deposits. They do wear the rotors faster than XP10.
The pads do deposit on the rotor during street driving, but it gets ground off after a track session.
So, RP2 bad on street, good on track, hard on rotors. If you run stock rotors they are probably worth it, if not and your rotors are $$$, probably not worth it.
Just gotta work out getting it now
