2011 Track Junkie Thread
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From: West Virginia
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: ATL
Going to meet him on Saturday to pick it up. Too bad there isn't anything exciting I know about happening at VIR b/c I'm meeting him in Danville.
I guess I can finish removing the rest of the rear interior trim. I'm already thankful I won't have a soft top to try and work around this time.
I will have to modify the rear HT latches won't I?
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Lewisville, TX
I ran my first track day with upgraded pads, Gendron front bar, and RA-1's on stock AP1's. Springs were 380 x 4 on Koni Yellows. No aero other than a hardtop.
I happen to think the bar will help keep things in check out back. Call it a little bit of end-swap insurance.
If he wanted to get into R-888's cheap, I have a staggered(will have to check to be sure) set on CE28N 7.5 x 17 fronts/1st-gen NSX 8 x 16 rears. Offsets are
, but the NSX oem wheels aren't the lightest things ever. Wheel/tire combo for around $500 seems like a decent start.
Minimum suggestion for an experienced driver: pads, fluid, good tires. Bar goes without saying. Use a CG-Lock if harnesses are not being used.
** Rob is right- I keep forgetting how old the S2000 really is. Replace the brake lines, too.
I happen to think the bar will help keep things in check out back. Call it a little bit of end-swap insurance.
If he wanted to get into R-888's cheap, I have a staggered(will have to check to be sure) set on CE28N 7.5 x 17 fronts/1st-gen NSX 8 x 16 rears. Offsets are
, but the NSX oem wheels aren't the lightest things ever. Wheel/tire combo for around $500 seems like a decent start.Minimum suggestion for an experienced driver: pads, fluid, good tires. Bar goes without saying. Use a CG-Lock if harnesses are not being used.
** Rob is right- I keep forgetting how old the S2000 really is. Replace the brake lines, too.
Joined: Mar 2005
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Originally Posted by clarkster009' timestamp='1311699520' post='20816853
[quote name='//steve\\' timestamp='1311692935' post='20816349']
Just found one heck of a deal on a harddog bar and it's exactly the one I want Just gotta work out getting it now
Just found one heck of a deal on a harddog bar and it's exactly the one I want
Just gotta work out getting it nowGoing to meet him on Saturday to pick it up. Too bad there isn't anything exciting I know about happening at VIR b/c I'm meeting him in Danville.
I guess I can finish removing the rest of the rear interior trim. I'm already thankful I won't have a soft top to try and work around this time.
I will have to modify the rear HT latches won't I?
[/quote]
Is that with a lowered harness bar? I remember someone was selling one but it had a welded higher one which isn't ideal.
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: ATL
Nope, that's the lowered harness bar too. It's the exact same bar I had in my first one. I'm not sure if I'm going to pick up that HD factory belt reel mount or just keep my factory bulkhead for now. I've thought about going with the cut it in half method and make a brace to rejoin the halves if needed. Saves me money and this way I can remove it without having to take out the rollbar.
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I ran my first track day with upgraded pads, Gendron front bar, and RA-1's on stock AP1's. Springs were 380 x 4 on Koni Yellows. No aero other than a hardtop.
I happen to think the bar will help keep things in check out back. Call it a little bit of end-swap insurance.
If he wanted to get into R-888's cheap, I have a staggered(will have to check to be sure) set on CE28N 7.5 x 17 fronts/1st-gen NSX 8 x 16 rears. Offsets are , but the NSX oem wheels aren't the lightest things ever. Wheel/tire combo for around $500 seems like a decent start.
Minimum suggestion for an experienced driver: pads, fluid, good tires. Bar goes without saying. Use a CG-Lock if harnesses are not being used.
** Rob is right- I keep forgetting how old the S2000 really is. Replace the brake lines, too.
I happen to think the bar will help keep things in check out back. Call it a little bit of end-swap insurance.
If he wanted to get into R-888's cheap, I have a staggered(will have to check to be sure) set on CE28N 7.5 x 17 fronts/1st-gen NSX 8 x 16 rears. Offsets are
, but the NSX oem wheels aren't the lightest things ever. Wheel/tire combo for around $500 seems like a decent start.Minimum suggestion for an experienced driver: pads, fluid, good tires. Bar goes without saying. Use a CG-Lock if harnesses are not being used.
** Rob is right- I keep forgetting how old the S2000 really is. Replace the brake lines, too.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 48,203
Likes: 10
From: Lewisville, TX
Originally Posted by FF2Skip' timestamp='1311704935' post='20817237
I ran my first track day with upgraded pads, Gendron front bar, and RA-1's on stock AP1's. Springs were 380 x 4 on Koni Yellows. No aero other than a hardtop.
I happen to think the bar will help keep things in check out back. Call it a little bit of end-swap insurance.
If he wanted to get into R-888's cheap, I have a staggered(will have to check to be sure) set on CE28N 7.5 x 17 fronts/1st-gen NSX 8 x 16 rears. Offsets are , but the NSX oem wheels aren't the lightest things ever. Wheel/tire combo for around $500 seems like a decent start.
Minimum suggestion for an experienced driver: pads, fluid, good tires. Bar goes without saying. Use a CG-Lock if harnesses are not being used.
** Rob is right- I keep forgetting how old the S2000 really is. Replace the brake lines, too.
I happen to think the bar will help keep things in check out back. Call it a little bit of end-swap insurance.
If he wanted to get into R-888's cheap, I have a staggered(will have to check to be sure) set on CE28N 7.5 x 17 fronts/1st-gen NSX 8 x 16 rears. Offsets are
, but the NSX oem wheels aren't the lightest things ever. Wheel/tire combo for around $500 seems like a decent start.Minimum suggestion for an experienced driver: pads, fluid, good tires. Bar goes without saying. Use a CG-Lock if harnesses are not being used.
** Rob is right- I keep forgetting how old the S2000 really is. Replace the brake lines, too.
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I believe RP2s have to be bidded in just like recommended by factory which is hard for me. Below is what happened to the pads and rotors on first track weekend.
I lost brakes in middle of session several times at SP T-1. Then when I slowed down on the last session of Saturday it developed deposits. Bleeded the lines and still losing brakes. The brake deposits finaly came out on the second session Sunday and gotten better on the last session but rotors looks like a vinyl record already.
This is just my personal opinion on this pads that is why I will not recommend it. I understand it works for Matt at VIR so maybe I will try it there when I have chance after I smooth out pads and rotors.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2008
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I believe RP2s have to be bidded in just like recommended by factory which is hard for me. Below is what happened to the pads and rotors on first track weekend.
I lost brakes in middle of session several times at SP T-1. Then when I slowed down on the last session of Saturday it developed deposits. Bleeded the lines and still losing brakes. The brake deposits finaly came out on the second session Sunday and gotten better on the last session but rotors looks like a vinyl record already.
This is just my personal opinion on this pads that is why I will not recommend it. I understand it works for Matt at VIR so maybe I will try it there when I have chance after I smooth out pads and rotors.
[/quote]
Ron, I ALWAYS pay the extra 20 bucks to get pre-bedded pads from Carbotech. You have just clearly described why this is worth 20 bucks. Just throw on the car and go.