2011 Track Junkie Thread
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Originally Posted by dc_s2k' timestamp='1311709605' post='20817559
[quote name='FF2Skip' timestamp='1311704935' post='20817237']
I ran my first track day with upgraded pads, Gendron front bar, and RA-1's on stock AP1's. Springs were 380 x 4 on Koni Yellows. No aero other than a hardtop.
I happen to think the bar will help keep things in check out back. Call it a little bit of end-swap insurance.
If he wanted to get into R-888's cheap, I have a staggered(will have to check to be sure) set on CE28N 7.5 x 17 fronts/1st-gen NSX 8 x 16 rears. Offsets are
, but the NSX oem wheels aren't the lightest things ever. Wheel/tire combo for around $500 seems like a decent start.
Minimum suggestion for an experienced driver: pads, fluid, good tires. Bar goes without saying. Use a CG-Lock if harnesses are not being used.
** Rob is right- I keep forgetting how old the S2000 really is. Replace the brake lines, too.
I ran my first track day with upgraded pads, Gendron front bar, and RA-1's on stock AP1's. Springs were 380 x 4 on Koni Yellows. No aero other than a hardtop.
I happen to think the bar will help keep things in check out back. Call it a little bit of end-swap insurance.
If he wanted to get into R-888's cheap, I have a staggered(will have to check to be sure) set on CE28N 7.5 x 17 fronts/1st-gen NSX 8 x 16 rears. Offsets are
, but the NSX oem wheels aren't the lightest things ever. Wheel/tire combo for around $500 seems like a decent start.Minimum suggestion for an experienced driver: pads, fluid, good tires. Bar goes without saying. Use a CG-Lock if harnesses are not being used.
** Rob is right- I keep forgetting how old the S2000 really is. Replace the brake lines, too.
[/quote]
Thanks, would not be possible without the PrincesS organ donations.
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I believe RP2s have to be bidded in just like recommended by factory which is hard for me. Below is what happened to the pads and rotors on first track weekend.
I lost brakes in middle of session several times at SP T-1. Then when I slowed down on the last session of Saturday it developed deposits. Bleeded the lines and still losing brakes. The brake deposits finaly came out on the second session Sunday and gotten better on the last session but rotors looks like a vinyl record already.
This is just my personal opinion on this pads that is why I will not recommend it. I understand it works for Matt at VIR so maybe I will try it there when I have chance after I smooth out pads and rotors.
[/quote]
Ron, I ALWAYS pay the extra 20 bucks to get pre-bedded pads from Carbotech. You have just clearly described why this is worth 20 bucks. Just throw on the car and go.
[/quote]
Thanks for the tip, Matt. I will surely do that next time.
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From: Ranson, WV
snip form http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edoc/brakebedding.pdf
In simple terms, bedding your brake pads allows the pads to mate with the rotors uneven surfaces. Even
brand new brake rotors are covered with microscopic scratches, grooves, and imperfections that must
be worn down to create as much surface area as possible for the pads to come in contact with. As your
brake pads bed in, they contour to fit every imperfection in the rotors.
after all, we are not talking about pre-washed or pre-worn blue jeans here.....
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Originally Posted by Beepbeep' timestamp='1311720423' post='20818233
Ron, I ALWAYS pay the extra 20 bucks to get pre-bedded pads from Carbotech. You have just clearly described why this is worth 20 bucks. Just throw on the car and go.
snip form http://www.ecstuning.com/stage/edoc/brakebedding.pdf
In simple terms, bedding your brake pads allows the pads to mate with the rotors uneven surfaces. Even
brand new brake rotors are covered with microscopic scratches, grooves, and imperfections that must
be worn down to create as much surface area as possible for the pads to come in contact with. As your
brake pads bed in, they contour to fit every imperfection in the rotors.
after all, we are not talking about pre-washed or pre-worn blue jeans here.....
From the Pagid website:
Why bedding?
To transfer a layer of friction material onto the brake disc faces to achieve maximum performance.
To stabilize compressible materials to avoid a spongy pedal.
To boil off volatile elements in the friction compound in order to have the initial ‘green’ fading during bedding and not during the race.
To align the pad surface with the brake disc surface to have full contact.
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From: Gaithersburg, MD
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From: Gods Speed #57 Lemons #77
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From: Maryland
I just bent mine, its not hard at all.
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From: Maryland
I believe RP2s have to be bidded in just like recommended by factory which is hard for me. Below is what happened to the pads and rotors on first track weekend.
[img]https://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q330/Beepbeep798/Brake%20Maintenance/2011-07-09_11-09-19_721.jpg[img]
[img]https://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q330/Beepbeep798/Brake%20Maintenance/331084091_photobucket_47690_.jpg[img]
I lost brakes in middle of session several times at SP T-1. Then when I slowed down on the last session of Saturday it developed deposits. Bleeded the lines and still losing brakes. The brake deposits finaly came out on the second session Sunday and gotten better on the last session but rotors looks like a vinyl record already.
This is just my personal opinion on this pads that is why I will not recommend it. I understand it works for Matt at VIR so maybe I will try it there when I have chance after I smooth out pads and rotors.
[/quote]
I had the same issue but worse with the XP10s, so I wouldn't necessarily blame the RP2s. I have a set of RP2s that I am going to try out when I make it to the track again. I got them pre-bedded this time though.