2011 Track Junkie Thread
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Originally Posted by dc_s2k' timestamp='1322325971' post='21186939
[quote name='metros' timestamp='1322284877' post='21186423']
Can I just say how much the s2000 forum is appreciated compared to the rx7 forum. You'd think the parts coming off these cars are plated in gold. Someone just sold a pair of old seats that were visibly dirty and worn for $400.
Then someone got pissy with me because I offered 275 for their requested 300 part. Evidently less than a 10% decrease in offer is lowballing.
I'd much rather deal with any of the s2000 members.
Can I just say how much the s2000 forum is appreciated compared to the rx7 forum. You'd think the parts coming off these cars are plated in gold. Someone just sold a pair of old seats that were visibly dirty and worn for $400.
Then someone got pissy with me because I offered 275 for their requested 300 part. Evidently less than a 10% decrease in offer is lowballing.
I'd much rather deal with any of the s2000 members.
[/quote]
I havent been trying too hard to sell them. Not really a priority now. I think i may just store them for 3 years and then sell them for 1000 when everyone elses seats are trashed.
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From: NoMaD
TigerDirect is having a sale on the very nice ContourHD1080P (what I run) camera for $100. If you need a camera this is an unbelievable deal.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...tigeremail2882
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...tigeremail2882
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Originally Posted by robrob' timestamp='1321383231' post='21158251
TigerDirect is having a sale on the very nice ContourHD1080P (what I run) camera for $100. If you need a camera this is an unbelievable deal.
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...tigeremail2882
http://www.tigerdirect.com/applicati...tigeremail2882
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From: Lewisville, TX
Rob, my truck is for sale (below Edmunds or KBB easily) and can tow 10,500 lbs. Haven't been driving it much since I got the BMW.
Thanks Skip, but I've decided to go with a new F250 diesel. I'll probably pick one up on Friday in Frederick, MD.
As for trailer size, if getting aluminum, you may want to go as big as you can. Resale is pretty decent on those. I'm sure you've already done it, but define your needs. You're super organized so you'll have your trailer better optimized. Do you want a sleeping area?
I'll probably go with a 24 foot aluminum if I order one new, but would consider 20-28' used at a good price. I do want enough floor space to lay out a mattress. I'm considering a gooseneck with a sleeping area, but I'm concerned the resale demand for a gooseneck trailer won't be as strong as a standard hitch trailer. What's your thoughts on this?
Jon, congratulations on taking the reigns in Florida. They're busy down there year around on all those sweet tracks.
As for trailers, goosenecks are very easy to tow, but in the short length you're looking at they're not worth it (if they even make them 24' and less). A tag-a-long is what you'll want. Since you're getting aluminum, 28' will be easily towable, especially for a diesel. You're gonna want as much trailer as you feel comfortable paying for and towing. Continuously moving stuff around in the trailer to accommodate sleeping necessities is a pain, and invariably you will have trailermates.
Aluminum trailers don't drop that much in price, and we all know you'll take immaculate care of it. Demand, on the other hand, is always speculative. You already know all this. If I may, I would suggest insulating the entire trailer. It will allow your AC unit and heaters to do what you ask of them much more easily. I'd even go so far as to insulate the underside. It's more important for the winter time than summer (insulating the bottom).
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From: Lewisville, TX
Originally Posted by skapur' timestamp='1322451638' post='21189653
Hey guys... anyone have a mechanic/shop in the MD or NOVA area they recommend? I usually take my M3 to RRT, but want was wondering if there are any s2k mechanics you guys recommend. I want to get the engine checked out - to start with, standard compression/leak down test, and may need to move onto valve job/retainers replaced... worst case, I may be looking at head rebuild and/or new engine...
Anyone have the AP1 head rebuilt? I think I read a couple people getting it done for about $800 w/ all OEM parts
Anyone have the AP1 head rebuilt? I think I read a couple people getting it done for about $800 w/ all OEM parts
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From: Lewisville, TX
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From: West Virginia
Congrats on your decision! <br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">As for trailers, goosenecks are very easy to tow, but in the short length you're looking at they're not worth it (if they even make them 24' and less). A tag-a-long is what you'll want. Since you're getting aluminum, 28' will be easily towable, especially for a diesel. You're gonna want as much trailer as you feel comfortable paying for and towing. Continuously moving stuff around in the trailer to accommodate sleeping necessities is a pain, and invariably you will have trailermates. <br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">Aluminum trailers don't drop that much in price, and we all know you'll take immaculate care of it. Demand, on the other hand, is always speculative. You already know all this. If I may, I would suggest insulating the entire trailer. It will allow your AC unit and heaters to do what you ask of them much more easily. I'd even go so far as to insulate the underside. It's more important for the winter time than summer (insulating the bottom).
<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">As for trailers, goosenecks are very easy to tow, but in the short length you're looking at they're not worth it (if they even make them 24' and less). A tag-a-long is what you'll want. Since you're getting aluminum, 28' will be easily towable, especially for a diesel. You're gonna want as much trailer as you feel comfortable paying for and towing. Continuously moving stuff around in the trailer to accommodate sleeping necessities is a pain, and invariably you will have trailermates. <br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">Aluminum trailers don't drop that much in price, and we all know you'll take immaculate care of it. Demand, on the other hand, is always speculative. You already know all this. If I may, I would suggest insulating the entire trailer. It will allow your AC unit and heaters to do what you ask of them much more easily. I'd even go so far as to insulate the underside. It's more important for the winter time than summer (insulating the bottom).
Thanks Skip. Lighting, insulation and 110v wiring is pretty much a must. A 32' gooseneck has around a 24' floor so it's comparable to a 24' conventional hitch but you lose most of the pickup bed and a truck slide-in camper isn't possible so I'm going to go with a 24-28' conventional trailer. Now that I have 14k of towing in the F250 I may forego aluminum. I'm going to run up to Mechanicsburg, PA to browse a trailer super dealer and see what they have in stock. I may break down and order one to be built.
I ended up getting a 2012 F250 diesel 4x4 single rear wheel crew cab with a 6 1/2' bed. I got a great deal at the Frederick, MD dealer. I've ordered new tires for it (moving from 245/75/17 to 285/75/17, 2.3" taller and 1.8 inches wider) so I don't want to take pics until the new meats are mounted.
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From: Lewisville, TX
AWESOME!!! Can't wait to see! What color?
If you get a trailer built, I would strongly consider how to make the front of the trailer to be less of an aerodynamic brick. It makes a HUGE difference in gas mileage. How do I know? Towing Big Red loaded for bear and towing it completely empty yielded less than half a mile per gallon difference. It was closer to a quarter mile per. Perhaps having that camper shell you mentioned will help.
I'm really excited for you. Getting a trailer suited exactly for your needs is far less expensive than trying to make a current one into your car pleasure palace. I hope you'll be able to hit VIR more often and even get to Road Atlanta or Mid-Ohio! Power at Road Atlanta is terrible, so a generator wiring hookup should be another consideration. Will you get a trailer to match the truck? That always looks baller!!!
If you get a trailer built, I would strongly consider how to make the front of the trailer to be less of an aerodynamic brick. It makes a HUGE difference in gas mileage. How do I know? Towing Big Red loaded for bear and towing it completely empty yielded less than half a mile per gallon difference. It was closer to a quarter mile per. Perhaps having that camper shell you mentioned will help.
I'm really excited for you. Getting a trailer suited exactly for your needs is far less expensive than trying to make a current one into your car pleasure palace. I hope you'll be able to hit VIR more often and even get to Road Atlanta or Mid-Ohio! Power at Road Atlanta is terrible, so a generator wiring hookup should be another consideration. Will you get a trailer to match the truck? That always looks baller!!!
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Congrats on your decision! <br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">As for trailers, goosenecks are very easy to tow, but in the short length you're looking at they're not worth it (if they even make them 24' and less). A tag-a-long is what you'll want. Since you're getting aluminum, 28' will be easily towable, especially for a diesel. You're gonna want as much trailer as you feel comfortable paying for and towing. Continuously moving stuff around in the trailer to accommodate sleeping necessities is a pain, and invariably you will have trailermates. <br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">Aluminum trailers don't drop that much in price, and we all know you'll take immaculate care of it. Demand, on the other hand, is always speculative. You already know all this. If I may, I would suggest insulating the entire trailer. It will allow your AC unit and heaters to do what you ask of them much more easily. I'd even go so far as to insulate the underside. It's more important for the winter time than summer (insulating the bottom).
<br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">As for trailers, goosenecks are very easy to tow, but in the short length you're looking at they're not worth it (if they even make them 24' and less). A tag-a-long is what you'll want. Since you're getting aluminum, 28' will be easily towable, especially for a diesel. You're gonna want as much trailer as you feel comfortable paying for and towing. Continuously moving stuff around in the trailer to accommodate sleeping necessities is a pain, and invariably you will have trailermates. <br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); "><br style="color: rgb(28, 40, 55); font-family: arial, sans-serif; line-height: 20px; background-color: rgb(250, 251, 252); ">Aluminum trailers don't drop that much in price, and we all know you'll take immaculate care of it. Demand, on the other hand, is always speculative. You already know all this. If I may, I would suggest insulating the entire trailer. It will allow your AC unit and heaters to do what you ask of them much more easily. I'd even go so far as to insulate the underside. It's more important for the winter time than summer (insulating the bottom).
Thanks Skip. Lighting, insulation and 110v wiring is pretty much a must. A 32' gooseneck has around a 24' floor so it's comparable to a 24' conventional hitch but you lose most of the pickup bed and a truck slide-in camper isn't possible so I'm going to go with a 24-28' conventional trailer. Now that I have 14k of towing in the F250 I may forego aluminum. I'm going to run up to Mechanicsburg, PA to browse a trailer super dealer and see what they have in stock. I may break down and order one to be built.
I ended up getting a 2012 F250 diesel 4x4 single rear wheel crew cab with a 6 1/2' bed. I got a great deal at the Frederick, MD dealer. I've ordered new tires for it (moving from 245/75/17 to 285/75/17, 2.3" taller and 1.8 inches wider) so I don't want to take pics until the new meats are mounted.