Crazy_Schizo

If you go back to 2007, you can see my car parked in the lot at UB while I was working on my Master's degree:

https://www.google.com/maps/@42.9981...!7i3328!8i1664

blueosprey90

How do you go back to some prior date to find the google pictures? I'm interested in doing that for some aerial photos.

Crazy_Schizo

Aerial photos I'm not sure if you can roll back on. Street view can do so by clicking on the little stopwatch icon in the upper left. It'll show you previous street views.

A 2

That’s cool Marc. I had no idea about that feature. Thanks for sharing

blueosprey90

I have engaged in post storm logging activity for the last few nights after work. I had a large oak tree branch, maybe 16 to 18 inches in diameter, come down. The end crashed down on the driveway, but the main branch, about 20 to 25 feet long, was vertical and leaning on some much smaller hemlocks. I was able to get a chain on it maybe halfway up, and then a come-a-long between the chain and the car, and I was able to pull it over its center of gravity and drop it next to the driveway. I was afraid that if it went wrong, it would hit either my garage or the lady next door's house. Despite misgivings, it worked out fine. But I had to do a lot of cutting in the heat and the clean up still needs an hour or two. The oak trees in my neighborhood are large and truly magnificent, but over the past ten years they have suffered a fair amount of storm damage. My neighbor across the street has a widow maker hanging up about 125 feet off the ground.

People said they saw a moose with calf on our property at Lincoln Pond this past spring. But they are gone now.

blueosprey90

Well, I'm starting to learn about voltage drop.

The car ('57 PV 444) just doesn't want to start. The Optima Red Top battery, although 13 years old, seems to hold a charge, albeit it is only a 6 volt battery. There seems to be a small voltage drop between the positive battery post and the positive battery connector and a larger voltage drop between the negative post and the stud where the negative lead attaches to the bulkhead. I haven't tested while trying to engage the starter, just with the car sitting there.

After work, I cleaned both sides of the negative battery connection where I thought I had voltage drop. The battery post and the place where the wire attaches to the body. I also cleaned the positive battery post and connector. Nothing looked all that compromised - at best, nothing more than some mild oxidation / tarnish. Once complete, though, car started right up.

So I'm thinking that I'll need to make cleaning all of these connectors a "maintenance item", to be done once a year when I change the oil. I also think that the battery cables are perhaps undersized. I am planning to investigate 2/0 sized cables.

But for today, chalk up as a small success.

blueosprey90

So much activity this summer that no one wants to post.

I've been working on restoring the 1972 Boston Whaler under pressure from my daughter and grand kids. Last weekend, installed the foundation pieces for the rub rail and the bow light. The wire to the bow light will run between the foundation piece and the top piece of the rub rail. Now that the light is installed, can finish up the rub rail. Four coats of paint on the boat's interior - two, 2-part epoxy base coats and two finish coats - and the rub rail were major projects that had me worried. Now, I still have to refinish some woodwork, the steering wheel and steering system, and get the motor mounted. The motor (1984 Johnson, 25 hp.) has been sitting for about 10 years and my son-in-law (Mr. B.) thinks I should buy a new one. But the motor "ran when parked", so I am assuming that I can get it started pretty easily. I've invested in a few new parts, including a water pump, to prove my optimism.

After work today, I plan to try to get the Volvo out of storage.

A 2

Working all day. Too exhausted at the end of the day.

headed to Lime Rock on Friday afternoon with BMWCCA. Looking forward to that

Riche

Checking the voltage drops in a circuit is a good way to isolate a problem like you just had. Had a similar issue with out USA beater but it turned out to be the starter drawing to much current. The car would start but cranked slowly especially when hot.
What I do is check the whole side then if the voltage is to high isolate sections to find where the resistance is. Larger cables never hurt but may not make any difference.Before spending the time to make the change you should see how much resistance you have with good connections. For me finding a second person to crank the engine has always been the hardest part of checking.

blueosprey90

For me it is just about impossible. I almost need to pull people off of the street given the resistance from the missus. Pumping the brake pedal - fo-get-about-it!

I have run a wire from the starter up the firewall and just terminated it with a connector. I can then use a remote start button that I connect to this wire and the positive side of the battery. When I push the button, the car will turn over. If I turn the ignition key to on, the car with start - at least in theory. It is quite helpful to have this when adjusting the valve lash.

I did get the Volvo out of storage last night and plan to drive to work.