HELP with trunk switch!
Originally Posted by kpxguy411,Nov 4 2005, 07:01 PM
Hmm ... sounds like this may take a little more work than I initially anticipated.

I'll look at the wiring diagrams tomorrow (there are out in the barn) and see what we find.
OK, maybe you are screwed! The same fuse supplies power for the key fob as for the glovebox switch to open, so it's not fuse #26 (and has nothing to do with the accessory plug power circuit) 
When you access the wires to the glovebox switch (should be two wires, one white and one Black w/ yellow stripe) check for 12V on the White wire with the key out of the ignition. If you didn't get 12V on the white wire then the wire is cut somewhere between the connector and the fuse box (or ignition switch logic is somehow scrambled). If you get 12V at the white wire then check continuity through the actual switch w/ the button depressed. If no continuity get new switch. If continuity exists then black wire w/ yellow stripe is cut somewhere between switch and junction of wire (also black w/ yel stripe) from keyless control unit (prob not a short or grounding prob since the key fob button works, it does right?).
Good Luck!

When you access the wires to the glovebox switch (should be two wires, one white and one Black w/ yellow stripe) check for 12V on the White wire with the key out of the ignition. If you didn't get 12V on the white wire then the wire is cut somewhere between the connector and the fuse box (or ignition switch logic is somehow scrambled). If you get 12V at the white wire then check continuity through the actual switch w/ the button depressed. If no continuity get new switch. If continuity exists then black wire w/ yellow stripe is cut somewhere between switch and junction of wire (also black w/ yel stripe) from keyless control unit (prob not a short or grounding prob since the key fob button works, it does right?).
Good Luck!
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