Pacific Northwest S2000 Owners For S2000 Owners in Washington, Idaho, and Alaska

In need of Engine help!

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Old Mar 20, 2010 | 01:41 PM
  #11  
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I've had a lot of oil consumption issues with Mobile 1 on my old s2k. It would do about 1 qt every 1000 miles. I switched to just regular dino Halvoline and barely drank a drop. Mobil 1 on these engines seem to not hold up as well as people think.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 08:20 PM
  #12  
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Actually Mobil 1 isn't the issue. If your motor has good tolerances in the guides/seals and oil rings, you won't use it. Problem is tolerances seem to be looser in the ap1's, especially in the 00-01 years. So Honda states that anything better then 1 quart per 1000 miles is within their spec, even though that sucks. I've run an updated 03 f20 short block and it was much better then the original 01, so there was obviously a fair bit of consumption through the rings on the 01. The 03 was about 50% better. I currently run an 05 f22 and its just a tighter motor. I don't consume any oil and I run Mobil 1. I've run allot of different kinds of oil's looking for the best one and I've determined at this point that brands don't mean as much as weight and Dyno vs Syn.

2-3k change intervals is quite frequent, so obviously your not cooking off your oil from over extending it. Keeping your level completely topped off at all times will help it consume less. Moving up one weight from 30 to 40 is something you can try if you want to continue to run Syn. Switching to Dyno as mentioned is another thing you can do. So keep your levels up at all times, move up a weight or switch to Dyno.
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 08:21 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by s2kmobbin,Mar 20 2010, 11:24 AM
I have been using 10w 30 Mobile 1 full synthetic. I change every 2,500-3000 miles. Feel free to give me any info thanks guys.

When i first bought the car i used Valvoline synthetic but then switched to mobile one. Now i think i will try Royal Purple.
Any reason you are running 10/30 instead of the OEM 5/30? The 5-10 is the cold flow, which isn't going to do anything for your consumption, since your motor isn't burning oil when its cold. If the temperature is cold enough it could cause your motor to not lubricate optimally and cause further wear and then oil usage. 5-40 would be a better choice in Syn. Or try 5/30 Dyno
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 10:27 PM
  #14  
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No reason at all, I thought 10/30 is what the F20c took. Well i am changing my oil tomorrow what weight do you suggest i try?
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Old Mar 21, 2010 | 10:44 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by s2kmobbin,Mar 21 2010, 10:27 PM
No reason at all, I thought 10/30 is what the F20c took. Well i am changing my oil tomorrow what weight do you suggest i try?
It is 10/30, sorry I confused my Toyota with my Honda for a brain fart moment. If you want to try staying with Syn then move up to 10/40. If your still consuming more then you would like at that weight, then switch to Dyno 10/30 and move up in weight from there if needed.
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Old Mar 22, 2010 | 09:05 AM
  #16  
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mobil 1 is one of the best oils out there, i wouldent swich oils.

and yes you have to pull the head to do valve seals. the valve spring holds the valve up in the head.you have to remove the spring to change the seal under it. the valve will just fall into the cyclinder.

or...

They do make this fancy tool that is a air chuck that screws into the spark plug hole that pushs air into the cyclinder so the valve doesent fail from the seat.

Zach
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 10:34 AM
  #17  
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So did you end up getting a valve adjustment? Notice a decrease in valvetrain noise? Where did you get it done?
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Old Mar 23, 2010 | 10:15 PM
  #18  
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I actually wont be getting it done till April 1 , I found a mechanic to do it for me on the side that has done it before. I will for sure let you know know the answer to your questions then.
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