AP2 rear UCA's fit AP1?
#11
Nice!
#12
Thread Starter
Well..... I screwed up. I wasn't paying attention to the alignment marks of the ball joints til it was too late.
Grind. Un-press. Re-press. Tomorrow. :'(
Haha.
Grind. Un-press. Re-press. Tomorrow. :'(
Haha.
#13
Doesn't the ball join rotate in it's socket? Which marks are you talking about? I know they have to be aligned a certain way but didn't know there were marks.
#14
Thread Starter
This is the slot they travel in. Some joints are axially directional. Some are not.
I re-pressed/welded them into the right spot as shown above lol. They do get more loose every time you re-press them. So unless you have a set with a C-clip...the welds are needed.
I tacked the under side of the joint too. That way, the bead acts as a retainer.
#16
Thread Starter
They're just mig welder tacks. Thats why I set a couple welds on the bottom of the joint. They ball joint is steel and the welds "stick" to that better than they do the cast iron of the arm.
The bottom tacks are literally just done so that even if they did come detached from the cast iron, the joint still wouldn't slide through.
The bottom tacks are literally just done so that even if they did come detached from the cast iron, the joint still wouldn't slide through.
#17
I don't think the arms are cast iron, they're too light and the material is too soft. Yes I weighed them front lower arm is around 4.8kg each rears are a smidge lighter at 4.6kg each, upper arms are 1.6kg each and the rear uppers weigh the same.
#18
Thread Starter
They're cast iron.
They're magnetic, they're rough cast, they're gray, they rust when not painted, they spark when grinded, and...yes...they're soft.
They're certainly not aluminum.
They're magnetic, they're rough cast, they're gray, they rust when not painted, they spark when grinded, and...yes...they're soft.
They're certainly not aluminum.
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