camber kits
Didn't see a thread in here (the suspension section), so thought i'd ask
I got an opinion and explanation from a shop i actually trust that my rear right camber can't be adjusted because some of the parts are messed up. See plastic tab-y things in picture:
He said that a camber kit should replace those parts, so I am looking for one that does.
The SPC kit doesn't, it replaces one of the ball joints
but maybe that's the front? IDK, also there is some concern that the SPC design would allow the camber to come out of adjustment again after driving. link
comptech looks similar to the SPC: http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/merchant...2000_Suspension
I can't tell where the eibach camber kit would be installed...
And then there is the J's camber kit: http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/merchant...2000_Suspension
I'd get the L1 if I go the J's route...
Well now I see that comptech and SPC both look the same, so I'm not that worried about the design if comptech would produce it. I may end up going with that one just to see if it resolves my problem, but any input is appreciated.
I got an opinion and explanation from a shop i actually trust that my rear right camber can't be adjusted because some of the parts are messed up. See plastic tab-y things in picture:

He said that a camber kit should replace those parts, so I am looking for one that does.
The SPC kit doesn't, it replaces one of the ball joints
but maybe that's the front? IDK, also there is some concern that the SPC design would allow the camber to come out of adjustment again after driving. linkcomptech looks similar to the SPC: http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/merchant...2000_Suspension
I can't tell where the eibach camber kit would be installed...
And then there is the J's camber kit: http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/merchant...2000_Suspension
I'd get the L1 if I go the J's route...
Well now I see that comptech and SPC both look the same, so I'm not that worried about the design if comptech would produce it. I may end up going with that one just to see if it resolves my problem, but any input is appreciated.
Originally Posted by DFWs2k,Nov 12 2010, 12:15 PM
See plastic tab-y things in picture...
I'd get the L1 if I go the J's route...
I'd get the L1 if I go the J's route...
The J's Racing camber joint is for the front. The rear typically has enough adjustment that most people don't have to add extra camber to get the tire temp distribution they're looking for.
That said, the SPC upper joints will work in the rear.
As a separate note, the "L" series J's Racing camber joints have long lead times and are more expensive than the "S" series. You can make the "S" do the same thing as the "L" by adding an aluminum spacer between the knuckle and the camber joint. A $10 addition that will save you over $100. There are a few companies that stock the "S" joints in the continental US. Again, these are just for the front.
Originally Posted by nmrado,Nov 12 2010, 01:26 PM
What plastic part are you talking about? There are no plastic pieces that could impact your alignment in the rear assembly.
The J's Racing camber joint is for the front. The rear typically has enough adjustment that most people don't have to add extra camber to get the tire temp distribution they're looking for.
That said, the SPC upper joints will work in the rear.
As a separate note, the "L" series J's Racing camber joints have long lead times and are more expensive than the "S" series. You can make the "S" do the same thing as the "L" by adding an aluminum spacer between the knuckle and the camber joint. A $10 addition that will save you over $100. There are a few companies that stock the "S" joints in the continental US. Again, these are just for the front.
The J's Racing camber joint is for the front. The rear typically has enough adjustment that most people don't have to add extra camber to get the tire temp distribution they're looking for.
That said, the SPC upper joints will work in the rear.
As a separate note, the "L" series J's Racing camber joints have long lead times and are more expensive than the "S" series. You can make the "S" do the same thing as the "L" by adding an aluminum spacer between the knuckle and the camber joint. A $10 addition that will save you over $100. There are a few companies that stock the "S" joints in the continental US. Again, these are just for the front.
that part needs to be replaced, but i'm not sure how it attaches or anything like that, got a suggestion that a rear camber kit may replace that
situation:
my car can only be maxed out at -3.5 on the passengers side. it can't hold any other adjustment, so I was thinking if i could get the comptech or SPC, then I could adjust it back to -2 or so?
thanks for information on the diff types i posted about, it looks like comptech is the same as SPC but a lot cheaper? can't see any other differences
this is only for the rear
thanks again
Originally Posted by DFWs2k,Nov 12 2010, 05:23 PM
i guess it's metal, looks flimsy, i'm talking about the "dog ears" from the other thread, the part i circled in blue in this pic
that part needs to be replaced, but i'm not sure how it attaches or anything like that, got a suggestion that a rear camber kit may replace that
my car can only be maxed out at -3.5 on the passengers side. it can't hold any other adjustment, so I was thinking if i could get the comptech or SPC, then I could adjust it back to -2 or so?
that part needs to be replaced, but i'm not sure how it attaches or anything like that, got a suggestion that a rear camber kit may replace that
my car can only be maxed out at -3.5 on the passengers side. it can't hold any other adjustment, so I was thinking if i could get the comptech or SPC, then I could adjust it back to -2 or so?
The "ears" are metal and they're welded to the rear subframe. There are not any kits that will replace the damaged components. If you have the facility and ability (
), I would fix the problem at the source instead of using a camber kit to get your alignment back into spec. I think there are two spot welds you need to drill out in order to remove the damaged "ears". You'll likely have to remove the tab that is on the other side of the control arm mount (can't see it in the picture, but it's on the backside of that mount location), as it's probably damaged too.The SPC camber joint will help get you back to spec, but it'll be a band aid to the real problem. I think the SPC joints are only compatible with 17"+ wheels...not sure what you're using. I don't recall what the SPC adjustment spec is, but it would probably get you close to -2 degrees of camber if you're starting from -3.5 degrees.
Good luck.
yea i read about the comptech and spc both needing 17" in the rear, i have 18s on right now.
they tried to bend up the part that wasn't broken off, but then when they tried to adjust, it just spun, so the welds must not be very strong? do you know if they ("ear" thingies and i guess that's the rear subframe ?) are steel or aluminum?
if they are steel, i will probably have the welder i go to fix that and a couple other things, now to find out if those are sold separately...i wonder if there's a way to make those parts stronger?
they tried to bend up the part that wasn't broken off, but then when they tried to adjust, it just spun, so the welds must not be very strong? do you know if they ("ear" thingies and i guess that's the rear subframe ?) are steel or aluminum?
if they are steel, i will probably have the welder i go to fix that and a couple other things, now to find out if those are sold separately...i wonder if there's a way to make those parts stronger?
Originally Posted by DFWs2k,Nov 12 2010, 06:26 PM
they tried to bend up the part that wasn't broken off, but then when they tried to adjust, it just spun, so the welds must not be very strong? do you know if they ("ear" thingies and i guess that's the rear subframe ?) are steel or aluminum?
if they are steel, i will probably have the welder i go to fix that and a couple other things, now to find out if those are sold separately...i wonder if there's a way to make those parts stronger?
if they are steel, i will probably have the welder i go to fix that and a couple other things, now to find out if those are sold separately...i wonder if there's a way to make those parts stronger?
Maybe you could have a local shop whip up a replacement and weld it in place. Or you could pick up a used subframe from someone parting their s2k.
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Originally Posted by DFWs2k,Nov 14 2010, 07:46 PM
The having a replacement made use what I thought would be best if can't find them anywhere. Those tabs just prevent part 15 from moving all the way.around?
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