MAVTS2k

Just got back from the shop for an alignment on my recently lowered AP1 (lowered approx 1 inch front and back, maybe a bit more). Alignment was done at a local performance shop. I have no record of what the alignment was like prior to lowering the car.

The shop informed me that the passenger side control arm camber adjuster is seized in the rear. On the front of the car, both front caster adjusters and both front camber adjusters were also seized.

They did the best they could given those limitations and the shop said they thought the end result was good enough for me not to bother messing with replacing any of the bushings (which I know can be a huge pain). Shop owner didn't think the camber in the rear would result in excessive tire wear but did say I should keep an eye on it just in case.

I know very little about alignments and was hoping for any feedback on where I ended up. The car is not tracked, just street driven in good weather conditions. Tires are Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s on stock AP1 wheels and I have no other suspension mods other than the coilovers. My main concerns are 1) will the car handle predictably with these specs and 2) will the tires wear excessively?

Thanks

engifineer

Toe is a little high in the rear. Otherwise that is pretty close to the UK alignment spec a lot of folks use for a street driven S2k.

B serious

Almost -3 deg of rear camber is probably OK...but that's a lot of toe.

At least its toe IN. So you'll see accelerated, but fairly even wear.

I'm going to assume that since the stuck adjuster wasn't found until you did the alignment...none of the bushings were clocked/re-clocked during the lowering process? Was the car already lowered when you got it, or did you lower it?

MAVTS2k

I am surprised that both of the responses are noting a lot of toe, despite it being within and closer to the lower end of the spec'd range. Were AP1s from the factory also considered to have too much toe? At any rate I did ask them to set it close to the low end of the range but that is the best they could do given the limitations.

I lowered the car myself and I did clock all the bushings. Twice actually. Based on my research at the time the stuck adjusters were not bolts that needed to be clocked/touched when lowering, so I didn't touch them and was not aware they were seized.

Edit - actually I take that back. I loosened the nuts (i guess they are technically lock nuts on the adjusters) and re-torqued but of course I did not try to move any of the adjusters for obvious reasons. I think the sleeves inside are stuck which is the issue.

B serious

The AP1 toe spec is MASSIVE at any end of the adjustment.

Part of the reason they revised it on AP2's was tire wear.

But you've also coupled it with camber in this case. And yes, the toe/camber relation does cause you to run out of towards-negative toe adjustment as camber goes negative.

So only a portion of the tire is touching the ground while the car is static (from the camber).

But as you drive, the toe will "pull in" on the tread and cause a good amount of tread squirm/movement as physics tries to kinda roll/pull the tread inboard.

It'll wear fairly evenly...but at an acceletated rate.

0.1 deg per side would be plenty (less than half of what you have total).

B serious

Anyway, there's nothing inherently wrong with your current spec.

Go see how you like it.

Afterwards, if you want to fix it....getting a few new bushings/adjusters or buying good used LCA's/adjusters to swap in isn't that huge of a deal.

There's a small chance you could free up your current bushes by dousing the bolts in penetrant. But...that's probably going to accelerate the bushing wear too.