how do u minimize rear end movement when power shifting
03-24-2016, 09:47 AM
#21
You guys make things so complex. There's posters here that purposely throw things over the head of these type of OP's without explaining properly.
OP wants to make sure his new wheels will fit within his fenders. Which is why he is waiting to align his car. He is going to set the camber with importance to fitment. His camber won't be set by an engineer that works at NASA.
He's probably not tracking the car or fine tuning it to the point of perfection. The solutions mentioned (corner balancing, etc) are too sophisticated for the situation. The car is not corner balanced from the factory. Springs and shocks for each axle have the same part number.
Keeping it simple:
-He's slamming gears.
-He's probably not interested in NOT slamming gears.
-His rear alignment is off. When he slams gears, the car squats, the alignment goes further off, and it shifts around. The fact that there's more negative camber probably makes the tires easier to spin. So it will move around a bit because of that.
The solution is to get an alignment first. It'll probably sort itself out.
Beyond that, if the car is crazy low, maybe some bump steer correction is needed via toe arms, etc.
Another tip for OP would be to make sure to clock all his bushings to minimize bind or dynamic change. I would not change to poly bushings just to fix this tiny issue.
OP wants to make sure his new wheels will fit within his fenders. Which is why he is waiting to align his car. He is going to set the camber with importance to fitment. His camber won't be set by an engineer that works at NASA.
He's probably not tracking the car or fine tuning it to the point of perfection. The solutions mentioned (corner balancing, etc) are too sophisticated for the situation. The car is not corner balanced from the factory. Springs and shocks for each axle have the same part number.
Keeping it simple:
-He's slamming gears.
-He's probably not interested in NOT slamming gears.
-His rear alignment is off. When he slams gears, the car squats, the alignment goes further off, and it shifts around. The fact that there's more negative camber probably makes the tires easier to spin. So it will move around a bit because of that.
The solution is to get an alignment first. It'll probably sort itself out.
Beyond that, if the car is crazy low, maybe some bump steer correction is needed via toe arms, etc.
Another tip for OP would be to make sure to clock all his bushings to minimize bind or dynamic change. I would not change to poly bushings just to fix this tiny issue.
Cross weights are part of alignment, just usually not adjustable on a street car. With threaded coilovers they are and were probably changed lowering the car.
A shop that does lowering and alignment probably also has scales. These days they are often wireless and use a smartphone or tablet for interface, although wired are less expensive.
http://www.meganraci...0corner-balance
https://robrobinette...rner_weight.htm
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ayTgBT0uLw[/media]
03-24-2016, 10:09 AM
#22
OP...also check that things are not uneven side to side. Tire pressures, damper adjustments, ride heights, etc. Look for torn diff or suspension bushings.
Hopefully you're familiar enough to know a few things already like...tires spin easier when they are cold or wet or that RWD cars tend to spin the rear tires when gears are slammed. That way, we can glaze over the basics.
Hopefully you're familiar enough to know a few things already like...tires spin easier when they are cold or wet or that RWD cars tend to spin the rear tires when gears are slammed. That way, we can glaze over the basics.
03-24-2016, 10:17 AM
#23
Originally Posted by B serious' timestamp='1458840098' post='23918323
You guys make things so complex. There's posters here that purposely throw things over the head of these type of OP's without explaining properly.
OP wants to make sure his new wheels will fit within his fenders. Which is why he is waiting to align his car. He is going to set the camber with importance to fitment. His camber won't be set by an engineer that works at NASA.
He's probably not tracking the car or fine tuning it to the point of perfection. The solutions mentioned (corner balancing, etc) are too sophisticated for the situation. The car is not corner balanced from the factory. Springs and shocks for each axle have the same part number.
Keeping it simple:
-He's slamming gears.
-He's probably not interested in NOT slamming gears.
-His rear alignment is off. When he slams gears, the car squats, the alignment goes further off, and it shifts around. The fact that there's more negative camber probably makes the tires easier to spin. So it will move around a bit because of that.
The solution is to get an alignment first. It'll probably sort itself out.
Beyond that, if the car is crazy low, maybe some bump steer correction is needed via toe arms, etc.
Another tip for OP would be to make sure to clock all his bushings to minimize bind or dynamic change. I would not change to poly bushings just to fix this tiny issue.
OP wants to make sure his new wheels will fit within his fenders. Which is why he is waiting to align his car. He is going to set the camber with importance to fitment. His camber won't be set by an engineer that works at NASA.
He's probably not tracking the car or fine tuning it to the point of perfection. The solutions mentioned (corner balancing, etc) are too sophisticated for the situation. The car is not corner balanced from the factory. Springs and shocks for each axle have the same part number.
Keeping it simple:
-He's slamming gears.
-He's probably not interested in NOT slamming gears.
-His rear alignment is off. When he slams gears, the car squats, the alignment goes further off, and it shifts around. The fact that there's more negative camber probably makes the tires easier to spin. So it will move around a bit because of that.
The solution is to get an alignment first. It'll probably sort itself out.
Beyond that, if the car is crazy low, maybe some bump steer correction is needed via toe arms, etc.
Another tip for OP would be to make sure to clock all his bushings to minimize bind or dynamic change. I would not change to poly bushings just to fix this tiny issue.
Cross weights are part of alignment, just usually not adjustable on a street car. With threaded coilovers they are and were probably changed lowering the car.
A shop that does lowering and alignment probably also has scales. These days they are often wireless and use a smartphone or tablet for interface, although wired are less expensive.
http://www.meganraci...0corner-balance
https://robrobinette...rner_weight.htm
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ayTgBT0uLw[/media]
The alignment definitely changes when you lower a car. He probably has not clocked any bushings...so there may be some differences side-to-side in angles or the amount of dynamic change.
Again...the car is not corner weighted from the factory. He said that his issue started when he lowered the car.
The corner weights lay as-is from the factory. So...they're uneven on day 1...and uneven when he lowers the car. The problem wasn't present on day 1.
My deduction would be to look at things that CHANGE when a car is lowered.
-Alignment
-Bushing bind (if you don't properly clock them).
-Ride heights being uneven...which cause uneven alignments.
****This is independent of corner weighting. Ride heights are purposely made uneven for corner weighting. The car is then aligned to those uneven heights. So in EITHER scenario, we have a car with uneven heights. A corner weighted car that has uneven alignment angles will still squat unevenly or pull, etc. Just like a car that is NOT corner weighted will also do. Because in either case, the prevailing factor is uneven ANGLES...not weights.
-Reduction in contact patch due to camber.
Things that may have changed coincidentally:
-Tire pressures
-Ambient temps
03-24-2016, 12:32 PM
#26
OP: i don't like what happens when I brutally abuse my car, and I won't bring my car to a competent mechanic.
S2ki: Stop driving like that and take your car to a competent mechanic.
OP: lulz put away ur dickshunaree
S2ki: No really, if you stop driving like that and take your car to a mechanic, it will help with your problem. A lot.
OP: omergerg! lemme go ask fazebook. theirs a guy on there that runs BC Racing coils and steel explorer rims so hes a ekspert. he said its cuz the S is so furious that you have to double-clutch.
S2ki: ... but...
OP: S2ki just don't understand!
S2ki: Stop driving like that and take your car to a competent mechanic.
OP: lulz put away ur dickshunaree
S2ki: No really, if you stop driving like that and take your car to a mechanic, it will help with your problem. A lot.
OP: omergerg! lemme go ask fazebook. theirs a guy on there that runs BC Racing coils and steel explorer rims so hes a ekspert. he said its cuz the S is so furious that you have to double-clutch.
S2ki: ... but...
OP: S2ki just don't understand!
03-24-2016, 01:59 PM
#27
Thread Starter
Lmao you guys are hilarious, this is forum takes the cake as far as dick swingin. Y'all are battling for who could be the most technical and correct. Idk how a simple question escalated to what it is now. Again I thank the ppl who gave some good sound advice. And I'm sry for those who may have misunderstood what information I was looking for and bashed me and name called. I thought the reason for forums were to share information but and advice but some ppl mix that up with giving they're close minded opinion and feel that they're input is gospel and it shouldn't be any other way
