ottawas2000guy

Opinion: I know well enough that suspension setups are very subjective and I was actually very happy with my stock AP1's handling characteristics which most people aren't. I have driven this way until this winter during which time I'm making some changes..
- 255 square setup over the winter.
- Ohlins 10k/10k
- Stock front sway bar.
-Miata rear sway bar (Planned)

Opinions??!?!
My line of thinking is to start with a budget friendly miata rear sway. It seems some believe this setup will still require a larger front sway bar to tame things down. What do you think?

Install: Everyone on S2ki references miata rear sway bars as being commonplace on s2000's yet I can't actually find a DIY thread or otherwise that explains what parts are needed.. I found one thread that mentioned interference with the rear diff mount and a bunch of custom fabrication to avoid it. I can't believe the mod would be this popular if it required a bunch of fab work. So please clear this up for me.. I gather the typical setup is using an NC miata front sway bar in the rear of the s2000. What other parts do I need? Use s2000 end links or miata? I was planning on buying this sway bar off ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/162744070598

Fokker

Personally, I would skip the Miata bar and get a Karcepts rear bar for tuning to needs/preference, but go here for an install of an NC bar:

Zenfolio | random1 | Light Weight Rear Sway Bar Using MX-5 Front Sway Bar

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-ra...nstall-946357/

ottawas2000guy

DanielB

I have same year as you (MY00) and went with the Sakebomb Ohlins kit (11k/11k) so not much different than your plan. And like you, I wasn't really unhappy with the stock setup except it was just too soft for the track. I had read how I was going to have to soften the rear bar or stiffen the front, but decided to run it with the stock bars anyway for second half of last summer. Initially I continued with the AP2V1 wheels and 225/255 setup. Then I switched to 255/255. I'm very happy with the setup as it is - I hate understeer and that's pretty much gone now. If you are ok with occasional corrections to keep the rear in line, then I think you might be happy with it as-is. If you come from a FWD environment and don't like any oversteer, then perhaps you'll want to do the bar(s) right away. But as you said you liked it stock, my advice would be to drive it with the stock bars before you make any changes.

ottawas2000guy

Daniel B, excellent input. Thanks for that feedback on your setup as it sounds like we’re in the exact same boat. I went with the ohlins and stiffer springs for the same reason, just found the car too slow through transitions on track. I hate understeer as well and don’t mind a slightly rear visages setup as I’m out there to have fun rather than all out speed which might be more attainable with a slight understeer setup. That being said my fear from over analyzing and reading too many opinions is that it’s going to be a wild ride and be undriveavle. I’m all for testing and many people will say just try it out without any experience specifically. And my issue with that is that I don’t want to spend hundreds of $$ on a track day only to have a miserable and dangerous time with an undriveavle setup. Sounds like that’s absolutely not the case though so I think I will give it a try as is and slowly push the limits to see what it feels like.

DanielB

Can't tell for sure from your first post, but it looks like you have not yet tried out the Ohlins on the track. For me, that was a huge improvement by itself. It tamed the rear end as there's less suspension travel now so less toe change. My first day out with the square setup I had the same fears as you. But I just started out going easy and gradually pushed harder. There were no sudden breakaways from the rear and, in the end, I found the front just had that little extra grip to take out some of the push in mid speed corners. I haven't yet been back to a track with higher speed (90+ mph entry) corners and I'll initially approach those cautiously too.

FYI, my winter project is to swap to an AP2 subframe to make the rear more stable. There's really nothing wrong with the current setup, except that compared to driving my friends Miata and FRS, the rear just moves around more over bumps and undulations. I found one cheap so figured it was worth it. But I don't see it as a high priority - just taking advantage of the opportunity to do a little tweaking.

Depending on how things change after the subframe swap, I might go with an adjustable bar anyway to do some fine tuning. But I'm taking it one step at a time. I learn more that way and in the end I think it helps me spend smarter.

ottawas2000guy

You're right I haven't actually driven on the Ohlins at all since I installed them after the snow started flying up here. I should point out that I realize it's suboptimal to be making so many changes at once and it's not my preference it's just the way it's worked out with a good deal on the square set of wheels. I agree making changes one step at a time and feeling things out will avoid unnecessary spending. I actually came close to buying a BSK that was deemed necessary by so many others with an AP1, but you know what I haven't found that I need one on our smooth local track and on the bumpy back roads I'm just not at the absolute limit.

Dead Serious

Can anyone confirm the NC FSB is 21.1mm in diameter?

ottawas2000guy

Dead Serious

Buying these.

https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/RULAND-MANUFACTURING-2024-Aluminum-Shaft-Collar-30VM46?breadcrumbCatId=5258&fc=MWP2IDP2PCP

I had an oem collar failure. It was loose from the original hammering and drifted inboard over time. The bar was nocking back and fourth.