Sway bars do not effect ride quality.

Putting on the stiffer front sway will reduce inside rear tire lift, will add roll stiffness, and reduce traction on the front tires, but allow you to toss the car around more. Putting on any OEM bar will not change the balance dramatically though.

 

any input on swift sway bars on an ap2 would be nice..

 

Interesting thread and plenty of good reading, with that said..........


I have a MY2000 and it had a tendency to oversteer, it felt like the rear was trying to shove the front out of its way and this was not to aggressive of driving. I was not very comfortable pushing the car into turns very hard, the rear had a tendency to slide out very easily. I spent plenty of time reading multiple threads in regards to the differences through the years in regards to the spring and sway bar rates as well as the many threads talking about different sway bars and suspensions. I basically did as much reading as my brain could handle before I spent a penny on parts. I decided to go against the grain a bit, MY2000 and 01 seem to be considered the raw version and there are a few areas that can be improved to get the car a little more under control. These 2 years have the largest sway bars including the CR (there are quite a few other differences that affect the handling on these 2 years), the front sway on this MY is larger by 1lb/in so CR is 392lb/in and '00-'01 is 393lb/in but the rear sway on the 00-01 is larger 42? Lb/in vs the CR which is 34? Lb/in. Since the front is so close in size I opted to go with the CR rear sway and leave the front alone. I did this about month ago and all I can say it was the best thing I did, I can go into turns more aggressively and with more confidence. This is my dd and I have not made any other mods as of yet, just the rear sway and it is a noticeable improvement. I am going to install my fortune auto 500 coil overs soon along with front roll center adjusters and later once I go up in wheel size I will swap out the rear toe arms.

 

Just hope this is of some use to somebody.

Currently have a Whiteline FSB but was looking for an adjustable option... Eibach. So used a formula mentioned earlier which made sense...

Diameter Wall thickness Solid/Hollow Rating Realtive "stiffness" calc
Whiteline 30 SOLID Solid 79521.49688
Eibach 32 4.76 Hollow 65/73 77871.86497
Stock 00 28.2 5 Hollow 61.6 51314.6054


J = pi * (OD^4) / 32 <-- for solid bars

J = pi * (OD^4 - ID^4) / 32 <-- for hollow bars

pi = 3.14159
OD = outer diameter
ID = inner diameter

 

No one mentioned mx5 rear bars. Any input with them?

 

If your setup needs it, get it. If not, then don't.

There's not much to discuss, it's a metal bar, it has a spring rate. Purchase accordingly.

 

I have a MY04 s2000 and I currently have kw v3 coil overs, dunlop z2s, uk alignment, and stock sway bars. Recently while going through the canyons, I have noticed the rear is kind of twitchy and the car can unsettle a bit through some transitions. I want more of a confidence inspiring and stable setup especially when going through the turns.

I looked at a couple various sway bars and was considering the eibach or whiteline front sway bars. If I went with the whiteline would it be too stiff? I dont want the sway bar to induce too much understeer. Should I look at taking the rear bar off? Im new to suspension tuning and would like more insight.

 

Find a cheap MY00-01 Front sway bar

 

I have an MY01 and I've disconnected the rear sway bar simply by removing the end link. It does understeer in some circumstances, but I love it on the track. Very stable. So I'd recommend doing that as a simple and cheap test. Go drive without it and see how it feels under different conditions. It'll only take 5 minutes to remove. Even if you don't keep it that way, it'll at least give you a data point for a large difference between front and rear rates.

 

I'm running cusco 32mm front and 30mm rear (I believe the mm is correct). I love em, car stays planted through curves, there is understeer, paid a bit less than $600 shipped for the pair. These combined with strut x-brace and lower spoon x-brace make the s supper stiff while cornering.