Ohlins DFV's - Review
#31
I'm no chart reading genius but if I'm taking what you're saying I could easily get away with the rates I want to run? I'd actually really love to do 700/600 but I was think that's too much.
#32
If you want stiffer springs, give them a try. You can always sell them to other racers if you don't like the results and don't feel like having the DFVs revalved. I think you could run your desired 700/600 lb/in with that valving.
#33
I don't think you'd have any issues on 700/600. I believe those are the rates that TWF (and ohlins rebuilder) was running on his S2000, which looked great. Also, there is a local STR autocrosser on DFV's with 700 lb front springs who is routinely very fast against some fast competition.
#34
So given the dyno plots that are shown, I'm asking the more knowledgeable guys what you think the max spring rate is that could be run on these with off the shelf valving. For the all purpose use that I'm after I don't see the need to have them revalved and was looking most towards a 650/550lb setup or 12/10k setup.
I recently ran mine on the off the shelf rates at an autocross and found 2 from stiff up front and 6-7 from stiff out back worked very well for me. I haven't tried running them at full stiff but also haven't felt like they needed it. I was running the fronts a little stiffer to make up for the lack of massive front sway. If I had a little more bar I'd likely run them a tad softer.
I recently ran mine on the off the shelf rates at an autocross and found 2 from stiff up front and 6-7 from stiff out back worked very well for me. I haven't tried running them at full stiff but also haven't felt like they needed it. I was running the fronts a little stiffer to make up for the lack of massive front sway. If I had a little more bar I'd likely run them a tad softer.
I got my rears revalved when I bought them so I got discounts, but I will say that I was VERY happily surprised at how little it cost to have them valved.
#35
Originally Posted by //steve\\' timestamp='1418089528' post='23431130
So given the dyno plots that are shown, I'm asking the more knowledgeable guys what you think the max spring rate is that could be run on these with off the shelf valving. For the all purpose use that I'm after I don't see the need to have them revalved and was looking most towards a 650/550lb setup or 12/10k setup.
I recently ran mine on the off the shelf rates at an autocross and found 2 from stiff up front and 6-7 from stiff out back worked very well for me. I haven't tried running them at full stiff but also haven't felt like they needed it. I was running the fronts a little stiffer to make up for the lack of massive front sway. If I had a little more bar I'd likely run them a tad softer.
I recently ran mine on the off the shelf rates at an autocross and found 2 from stiff up front and 6-7 from stiff out back worked very well for me. I haven't tried running them at full stiff but also haven't felt like they needed it. I was running the fronts a little stiffer to make up for the lack of massive front sway. If I had a little more bar I'd likely run them a tad softer.
I got my rears revalved when I bought them so I got discounts, but I will say that I was VERY happily surprised at how little it cost to have them valved.
#36
Originally Posted by thomsbrain' timestamp='1418165329' post='23432054
[quote name='//steve\\' timestamp='1418089528' post='23431130']
So given the dyno plots that are shown, I'm asking the more knowledgeable guys what you think the max spring rate is that could be run on these with off the shelf valving. For the all purpose use that I'm after I don't see the need to have them revalved and was looking most towards a 650/550lb setup or 12/10k setup.
I recently ran mine on the off the shelf rates at an autocross and found 2 from stiff up front and 6-7 from stiff out back worked very well for me. I haven't tried running them at full stiff but also haven't felt like they needed it. I was running the fronts a little stiffer to make up for the lack of massive front sway. If I had a little more bar I'd likely run them a tad softer.
So given the dyno plots that are shown, I'm asking the more knowledgeable guys what you think the max spring rate is that could be run on these with off the shelf valving. For the all purpose use that I'm after I don't see the need to have them revalved and was looking most towards a 650/550lb setup or 12/10k setup.
I recently ran mine on the off the shelf rates at an autocross and found 2 from stiff up front and 6-7 from stiff out back worked very well for me. I haven't tried running them at full stiff but also haven't felt like they needed it. I was running the fronts a little stiffer to make up for the lack of massive front sway. If I had a little more bar I'd likely run them a tad softer.
I got my rears revalved when I bought them so I got discounts, but I will say that I was VERY happily surprised at how little it cost to have them valved.
[/quote]
I really don't know! I think Ohlin's recommendation is based on what the shock can easily handle in terms of rebound adjustment. In other words, you won't hurt anything and the wheels won't bounce around if you run 12/10 on the stock valving. I think it's down to preference and application. I'm sure if you just want to run HDPE and live with fairly smooth streets, you'd be perfectly happy without a revalve. I just do HDPE and will never set any records, but I have extremely bumpy mountain roads on my commute, so comfort and compliance were a big factor in my choice to pony up for the Ohlins. I made a judgement call that it was worth the small expense to have the bump valving reduced to match the stiffer rear springs so that the effect on the ride quality would be minimized.
#39
Originally Posted by //steve\\
performance shock inc out in CA is a good choice. I'd give them a call.
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