engifineer

You generally do a slight bed in on all new pads. For regular street pads it is typically a few decently hard stops, but nothing like a track pad bed in. Been doing it that way for years, as does the shop in our family. The manual is not a repair guide, it literally expects you are taking it to a shop (who will give it a few good hard stops after installing them). That is to make sure everything is good with their install before you go beating on them. Again, the user manual is not a repair manual and should not be used as such.

Now of course, track pads ... much, much harder bed in procedure but that is not required on a regular old street pad.

Car Analogy

You absolutely need to clean rotor surfaces. They'd arrive full of rust if they didn't coat them with grease or similar. Even coated rotors, as rotors pad surfaces aren't coated.

Rotor surface has a cross hatch type surface when new. Similar to honed surface. Then as pad wears, so does rotor.

The way brakes work, a micro layerof pad material transfers to rotor, and its this surface, pad material to oad material, that creates the controlled friction that allows brake feel, allows max braking force.

So pad bed in is the action which places this layer onto rotor. For street pads, you'll still get halfway decent braking when rotors still fresh. Race pads, will feel like pads are made from wood until they bed in. Will also feel like wood every time until they get up to operating temps.

So all those hard stops are heating rotor to point pad material will stick. But most important is an even layer of pad material.

If you get rotors this hot, then middle of bed in procedure you come to complete stop, holding down pedal, you'll get a pad shaped spot of extra material on rotor. Like a shirt that someone left the iron in one spot.

Then you get that brake pulse that everyone calls warped rotors. Which isn't actually a thing. Its always uneven layer of pad material. From braking hard and long, then stopping.

If you ever get brakes really hot, don't come to complete stop unless you have to, and if you do, let go of brakes while stopped if you can.

If you change pads, to a different brand or compound, and reuse rotors, you have to bed a layer of new pads onto rotor. Ideally, you'd also add a new honed surface to rotor. They make brake hones that go into drill Chuck for this very purpose.

Also, if you have track pads and street pads, you kinda also need to have rotors to match as well, that are already bed with those pads. Otherwise you have to do the rebed procedure each time pads changed. When switching from race back to street, getting all the race pad material off so street pads can bed will require more aggressive temps. More aggressive process.

noodels

In Uk they dont coat and they wrap in bags for a good reason.

Car Analogy

They wrap our rotors in bags too. AFTER they coat them in a layer of oil.

New rotors are coated which needs to be cleaned first, or pads will get contaminated.

noodels

Always clean them anyway with a cleaner