2002 Tweets are tough to replace - Help!
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Registered User
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 162
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From: Cincinnati
This is aggravating!
After a recommendation, I purchase Polk's EX3560 component system from Crutchfield (sale saved $30). The mid-woofers went into the baskets OK. I had to obviously cut the basket. I also drilled a hole in the basket for a third screw to fit. That worked like a charm.
HOWEVER, the tweeters (Polk EX3500) are 1". The stock tweets are either 3/4" or 1/2". Meaning, to mount a tweet behind the 2002 tweeter door screen is impossible (as far as I can tell).
Oh, BTW...I do believe I've safely determined that the wiring to the stock speakers uses green (white stripe?) for positive and gray (red stripe) is negative.
[EDITED]
After much deliberation and conjecture, I figured it out. I used the flush mount casing. Cut/notched it to fit between the two posts that the stock tweeter mounted to. Then I reused (bent middle tab out of the way) the stock metal plate that mounted to the posts. BTW, if you want to separate it from the stock tweet, first unscrew the center screw, then simply pry it from the stock tweet to separate the stupid glue.
Also, the extra box/support/black plastic piece (held to the door panel with three screws) at the bottom/back of the door panel serves as a great place to store the crossover. It even has small slots to fish the wires thru.
Anyway, it works!!!
After a recommendation, I purchase Polk's EX3560 component system from Crutchfield (sale saved $30). The mid-woofers went into the baskets OK. I had to obviously cut the basket. I also drilled a hole in the basket for a third screw to fit. That worked like a charm.
HOWEVER, the tweeters (Polk EX3500) are 1". The stock tweets are either 3/4" or 1/2". Meaning, to mount a tweet behind the 2002 tweeter door screen is impossible (as far as I can tell).
Oh, BTW...I do believe I've safely determined that the wiring to the stock speakers uses green (white stripe?) for positive and gray (red stripe) is negative.
[EDITED]
After much deliberation and conjecture, I figured it out. I used the flush mount casing. Cut/notched it to fit between the two posts that the stock tweeter mounted to. Then I reused (bent middle tab out of the way) the stock metal plate that mounted to the posts. BTW, if you want to separate it from the stock tweet, first unscrew the center screw, then simply pry it from the stock tweet to separate the stupid glue.
Also, the extra box/support/black plastic piece (held to the door panel with three screws) at the bottom/back of the door panel serves as a great place to store the crossover. It even has small slots to fish the wires thru.
Anyway, it works!!!
Registered User
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
From: Melbourne
How bizzare. I just finished putting the same speakers in my door (actually recommended by Lucid himself). After much fiddling, I found out the best way was to actually pry off all the plastic coating from the tweeters, including the face which has the Polk logo. After you do this, you'll be left with the silver tweeter surrounded by a small amount of black plastic, and of course the wire.
The first tweeter I fiddled with I was trimming and cutting away the black plastic coating until I later realised, after wasting over 30 minutes doing this, that you can just pry it off with a flat metal spatula.
Anyway, the bracket on the rear of the original tweeters can be unscrewed and simply stuck onto the back of the new tweeters to screw on nicely.
I tried cutting a notch too - that's when i discoversed that the actual tweeter only appears molded with all the black surrounds. But that's exactly it - it's NOt molded, so can be pried off easily!!
Needless to say, the second tweeter I installed, in fact the second door that I hooked up only took about 15 minutes, soldering and all!
Fun, isn't it???!
The first tweeter I fiddled with I was trimming and cutting away the black plastic coating until I later realised, after wasting over 30 minutes doing this, that you can just pry it off with a flat metal spatula.
Anyway, the bracket on the rear of the original tweeters can be unscrewed and simply stuck onto the back of the new tweeters to screw on nicely.
I tried cutting a notch too - that's when i discoversed that the actual tweeter only appears molded with all the black surrounds. But that's exactly it - it's NOt molded, so can be pried off easily!!
Needless to say, the second tweeter I installed, in fact the second door that I hooked up only took about 15 minutes, soldering and all!
Fun, isn't it???!
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