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And that microphone that toecheese posted, I routed it up the pillar near the top left corner of the windshield. It's mostly out of sight.
How is your mic reception quality with the top down with the mic up that high on the pillar ? I was debating where to put the mic--I figured lower in the corner of the dash would offer more wind protection, but at the cost of having the mic closer to the sounds the car makes and farther from my mouth. I've been too lazy to try rerouting it to test it up higher to compare.
By the way, has anyone else experienced that the radio reception on the Joying is pretty bad? Even with the power antenna hooked up, it is significantly worse on the lower end of the dial FM stations (in Los Angeles) than I had with stock. AM is pretty noisy and squelchy too.
I thought I forgot something. Yes, even CH switch works
So - I pulled the ASWC completely. Wired harness Pin 3 to radio Key 1 and Pin 14 to Key 2 - and not only does it all work, but Mute works too, without using a relay! It requires a double tap. The only thing that is slightly flaky is if I push Mute just once and then push CH, then the CH button starts performing the mute function. But once I clear Mute with another double tap, then CH returns to its programmed function.
Gonna try to return the ASWC if I can - and so much cleaner without all that extra wiring in the dash, too. Thank you for this tip!
UPDATE: Had to pull Pin 14 connection. Now EVERY double tap was muting the radio, including volume. That's no good. Plus the radio kept going black on me--it does not seem to like that wire connected. That's fine, I can live without Mute.
How is your mic reception quality with the top down with the mic up that high on the pillar ?
Probably better than near the dash. It's tucked away behind the pillar/windshield area up there in a pretty turbulent free zone. Plus it's a lot closer to your mouth. That part of the dash below gets a lot more wind/turbulence with the top down.
And I can't comment on FM reception. I removed and shaved my antenna area years ago.
So - I pulled the ASWC completely. Wired harness Pin 3 to radio Key 1 and Pin 14 to Key 2 - and not only does it all work, but Mute works too, without using a relay! It requires a double tap. The only thing that is slightly flaky is if I push Mute just once and then push CH, then the CH button starts performing the mute function. But once I clear Mute with another double tap, then CH returns to its programmed function.
Gonna try to return the ASWC if I can - and so much cleaner without all that extra wiring in the dash, too. Thank you for this tip!
UPDATE: Had to pull Pin 14 connection. Now EVERY double tap was muting the radio, including volume. That's no good. Plus the radio kept going black on me--it does not seem to like that wire connected. That's fine, I can live without Mute.
You should do the relay it’s $4 on eBay and super easy to wire up. Then everything will work perfectly.
Here's my solution to angling the Joying screen for better ergonomics and without needing to remove any console pieces. I designed and printed this bracket with a 3D printer, the bottom tab slides into the natural slot on the inside of the radio door (this is on a 2002, not sure if all years have this slot). The radio then snaps in to the four oval holes pretty snugly. The two small holes at the top are optional if you want to attach the bracket to the vents above with zip ties for extra stability, but so far it seems pretty solid without needing them. And if you want to still use your radio door when you park the car without the screen, the bracket is easily removable. The screen position fits my hand really well but if you have giant hands and/or wear a giant pinky ring, shifting might get a little close to the screen for comfort.
That looks epic if a little complicated, I do want a 3D printer, all those little jobs that you can sort. Do you know that you can take the door off the radio compartment by popping out it’s pivot hinges with a small screwdriver?
That looks epic if a little complicated, I do want a 3D printer, all those little jobs that you can sort. Do you know that you can take the door off the radio compartment by popping out it’s pivot hinges with a small screwdriver?
Yeah its easy. Then you can put the trim back on, sans radio door.
That looks epic if a little complicated, I do want a 3D printer, all those little jobs that you can sort. Do you know that you can take the door off the radio compartment by popping out it’s pivot hinges with a small screwdriver?
Yep. But what I liked about this is that it uses the door as part of a natural bracket - without the door I'd have no way to attach this thing I printed. Plus the door elevates the screen an inch or so, which is nice. I used the radio for a bit with the screen mounted in it's factory upright position, but found it hard to use and look at. Entering text was particularly tough. The angle makes all the difference in the world. Silence3X's Steelie's method is another good (although pricier) way of achieving this.
What I wonder, is, why the hell does the radio door even have this slot? I mean it's great for me now that it has it, but why is it in the original design?
BTW, a 3d printer is great as a fun hobby or building the occasional project like this - but it's really not nearly as useful an appliance as I thought when i got it. I spend way more time printing out fun toys and parts for upgrading the printer itself than I do anything truly useful. I still love having it- but don't expect that you'll suddenly just be repairing everything in your house with one.
