Anyone own an Alpine IDA head Unit?
I'll shoot some pics today! It's not particularly epic, but it does look pretty solid 
I was going to shoot incremental install pics, but there's already a couple of install guides and I didn't have much to add.
I _think_ I'm going to take the next plunge and replace the door speakers with some nice components and a good amp to drive them. I'd like to do a single amp that with power front components at a good 75w+ and have a 3rd channel (even from bridging two channels on like a 4x amp) to drive a 8"-10" sub.

I was going to shoot incremental install pics, but there's already a couple of install guides and I didn't have much to add.
I _think_ I'm going to take the next plunge and replace the door speakers with some nice components and a good amp to drive them. I'd like to do a single amp that with power front components at a good 75w+ and have a 3rd channel (even from bridging two channels on like a 4x amp) to drive a 8"-10" sub.
It didn't take too long through Fleabay 
I've seen a few used ones go for $130-150, depending on condition - I think on that low side there's probably a few cosmetic issues (I saw one go super cheap and it was a "demo" like on a multi HU display in BB, etc.).
I just ran IDA-X100 searches for a couple of weeks, found one, put in my max price (my max was actually $175). Kind of the same way I got my S - just good luck and patience. I think with the X305 having been out for a while, it's driven down the X100 price a decent amount too.
Occasionally you'll see a private NIB sale starting under $125, and they tend not to go for more than about $175. My seller only had a handful of auctions in his history, so that tends to reduce the bidders (though does bump the risk a touch). Pay with PayPal and you're reasonably covered.
There's a couple of decent looking auctions right now in fact!

I've seen a few used ones go for $130-150, depending on condition - I think on that low side there's probably a few cosmetic issues (I saw one go super cheap and it was a "demo" like on a multi HU display in BB, etc.).
I just ran IDA-X100 searches for a couple of weeks, found one, put in my max price (my max was actually $175). Kind of the same way I got my S - just good luck and patience. I think with the X305 having been out for a while, it's driven down the X100 price a decent amount too.
Occasionally you'll see a private NIB sale starting under $125, and they tend not to go for more than about $175. My seller only had a handful of auctions in his history, so that tends to reduce the bidders (though does bump the risk a touch). Pay with PayPal and you're reasonably covered.
There's a couple of decent looking auctions right now in fact!
One additional comment about fitment. Using the OEM brackets (and screws) and matching holes in the Alpine the clearance on the stock door is 99%. It closes just fine, with _very_ close to stock pressure.
However, I notice slightly less resistance with the face/knob removed.
I would say if you took the stock brackets, and simply elongated the stock holes about 1/2 a hole extra to the rear of the hole (i.e., moving the brackets forward, the HU rearward) it would still mount flush and look perfect, but the tiny (maybe 1/16") extra clearance would clear the door 100%.
It's actually the pocket (funny, if the knob was 1/4" to the right, it would slip into the that gap between the pockets, but it's offset to the left).
Again, it's just a very tiny amount of contact, and even with the pretty easy removal of the HU, I'm not going to do it, but up front, it would be an improvement.
However, I notice slightly less resistance with the face/knob removed.
I would say if you took the stock brackets, and simply elongated the stock holes about 1/2 a hole extra to the rear of the hole (i.e., moving the brackets forward, the HU rearward) it would still mount flush and look perfect, but the tiny (maybe 1/16") extra clearance would clear the door 100%.
It's actually the pocket (funny, if the knob was 1/4" to the right, it would slip into the that gap between the pockets, but it's offset to the left).
Again, it's just a very tiny amount of contact, and even with the pretty easy removal of the HU, I'm not going to do it, but up front, it would be an improvement.
I'm looking at replacing my stock HU with an Alpine iDA-x303. Does it require a wire harness? I know it doesn't need the install kit (deck plate and all of that), but wasn't sure if I needed the wire harness so I don't have to do any splicing or soldering.
Also, I want to run the iPod cable to the console by the arm rest (usual hiding spot most folks seem to go for). Will I need to drill through it to get the cable in or is it much easier than that?
Thanks!
Also, I want to run the iPod cable to the console by the arm rest (usual hiding spot most folks seem to go for). Will I need to drill through it to get the cable in or is it much easier than that?
Thanks!
Assuming a X303 is like an X100, there is a harness supplied with the HU, however it's designed to splice into the OEM wiring (it just has loose, stripped wires).
What you want to do is hit up Bob at www.Modifry.com
They make a plug~n~play harness for Alpine that has the OEM connector on one end, and the Alpine specific connector on the other. The wiring part of the install is literally 15 seconds with this product. ~$25
He also makes an additional part that P&Ps into the OEM DCI harness (from his wiring harness) that allows you to keep the dash controls over on the left (it actually adds a few extra functions). ~$90 (plus the harness above)
The OEM brackets work just about perfect (see my post above) and the supplied bezel finishes up the install very nice. I'll shoot some pics of mine which I had said I was going to do anyway.
I put my cable in the secret compartment (semi PITA), but the armrest would be a piece of cake: remove knob, snap off center console area, and yeah, you'll need to make a hole for the connector, I don't think there's any kind of plug or existing hole big enough to fish the ipod cable through. You can get some rubber grommets and finish up a hole pretty clean though.
What you want to do is hit up Bob at www.Modifry.com
They make a plug~n~play harness for Alpine that has the OEM connector on one end, and the Alpine specific connector on the other. The wiring part of the install is literally 15 seconds with this product. ~$25
He also makes an additional part that P&Ps into the OEM DCI harness (from his wiring harness) that allows you to keep the dash controls over on the left (it actually adds a few extra functions). ~$90 (plus the harness above)
The OEM brackets work just about perfect (see my post above) and the supplied bezel finishes up the install very nice. I'll shoot some pics of mine which I had said I was going to do anyway.
I put my cable in the secret compartment (semi PITA), but the armrest would be a piece of cake: remove knob, snap off center console area, and yeah, you'll need to make a hole for the connector, I don't think there's any kind of plug or existing hole big enough to fish the ipod cable through. You can get some rubber grommets and finish up a hole pretty clean though.
[QUOTE=[DT],Oct 29 2009, 11:55 AM] Assuming a X303 is like an X100, there is a harness supplied with the HU, however it's designed to splice into the OEM wiring (it just has loose, stripped wires).
What you want to do is hit up Bob at www.Modifry.com
They make a plug~n~play harness for Alpine that has the OEM connector on one end, and the Alpine specific connector on the other.
What you want to do is hit up Bob at www.Modifry.com
They make a plug~n~play harness for Alpine that has the OEM connector on one end, and the Alpine specific connector on the other.
OK a few pics. Apologies, this is my broken 18/55mm, and it's humid as a mofo, so the pictures aren't the best.
Stock looking with the door closed:

IDA-X100 mounted, clean, flush, decent gap coverage with the supplied bezel (mounted using OEM brackets and screws):

USB connector in secret compartment - I'm using the USB vs. the 422i since our pod is newer (and with USB the controls are faster, plus you get album art, and some other functions). I also have a 16GB stick loaded with music.

A shot from the night I first installed it, no lights in the garage. This is reading from the USB stick - note the background graphic
Stock looking with the door closed:

IDA-X100 mounted, clean, flush, decent gap coverage with the supplied bezel (mounted using OEM brackets and screws):

USB connector in secret compartment - I'm using the USB vs. the 422i since our pod is newer (and with USB the controls are faster, plus you get album art, and some other functions). I also have a 16GB stick loaded with music.

A shot from the night I first installed it, no lights in the garage. This is reading from the USB stick - note the background graphic






