sn0wman

i have a couple quick questions! i picked up some electronic goodies and stuff and finally have time to install them. here is my list:

sony dsx s300-btx
polk db651s
rsx Bose spare tire sub
js2k foot well LEDs

I can wire the headunit no problem, i've done that before. speakers should be no big deal either. i plan on putting dynamat around everything. but the tricky part for me is picking the right amp and wiring it to the sub. i've never wired an amp or sub before. how would i wire an amp to the speakers and the sub? what amp should i use? ive seen some threads on wiring the bose spare tire sub but they're really old and most of them wired it to the stock HU. any tips or wiring? i know this install might not be as straight forward because of the spare tire sub i'm using. but any help would be great. i dont want to take it to a shop, id rather take my time and do it myself

and for the js2k footwell lights, i want to wire it with the dome lights. so when i unlock the car, open the door, or press the dome light button they turn on. my friend said i could wire it straight in but i read online i need a relay or something? any tips on that would be great. sorry guys im a noob with electronics thanks1!!

oth

There are two ways to get the music signal to an amp - "low level" which means pre-amp output, which goes through
shielded RCA cables, and "high Level" which means the already amplified output coming through the headunit's
speaker wires.
I believe the RSX sub has its own built in amplifier, and is driven off a high-level signal, so you'd need to run power
to it from the battery, and use the rear-channel speaker wires to send signal to it.
As for running speaker wires from an amp, you have two possible approaches.
1) run all new speaker wire from the amp into the doors and to the speakers
2) run speaker wires from the amp to the headunit harness (and from there it will continue through the OEM
wiring to the speakers.
Since those speakers are efficient and there's no reason you need to throw a lot of power at them, #2 should be fine.
As for the choice of amp, if you're not running a sub off of it, you might consider Alpine KTP-445U for it's small size,
simplifying installation.

if you want your dash controls to work with an aftermarket headunit, you need a dash control interface (DCI) to translate
the dash commands to the headunit. There are others, but the most popular is the Modifry DCI.
In addition, with or without a DCI you'll want an adapter harness such as Metra 70-1721. Be aware that many of these
don't have the S2000-specific dash wires, so if you intend to use a DCI, buy Modifry's adapter harness which certainly does.
You may also want speaker harness adapters.

There are many, many posts detailing installation, as well as useful web resources such as Basic Car Audio Electronics.

sn0wman

nice thanks for your help! really shed osme light on how i want to approach it. the amp that comes with the rsx sub isnt so good so i might get an aftermarket one. but good call about the DCI, def need to get that.

btw, im going to be putting my bluetooth mic above the steering wheel column right by the cluster. any idea on how i can hide the wires?i was looking for some wire clips but no luck so far.

and for the relay, do you wire it by female connectors to the posts?

kojak

I didn't like the look of the BT mic on the dash; mine is wired through the seat and mounted on the edge of the plastic part of the headrest. The "best" place is probably on the sun visor.

I tried to start out simple with db651s, a head unit, mono amp and 10" sub in my S2000; it was a big improvement over stock, but was still all but inaudible when top-down on the freeway, so I wound up redoing the whole job in stages before I was satisfied.

A better amp (PPI p900.4, very light and compact for its output) netted another big improvement, but the coaxials couldn't quite overcome the wind and engine noise at 80 MPH with any sound quality. My first impulse was add-on rear speakers, but replacing the Polks with some nicer components (JL C2-650) did the trick.

Finally, my old low profile sub (07CVT10 in .8 ft³ Zenclosure) was sounding a bit strained trying to keep up, so I switched the driver for a much beefier unit (JL 10w3v3-4). At higher speeds the low end needs to be cranked quite a bit for rich sound in a convertible, and the stronger driver really made a big difference.

oth

it's actually remarkably easy to install the BT mic by the sun visor - these radar detector hardwire instructions
will point you in the right direction.