Audio install...
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Poconos
...to cut through that grommet in the photo above I needed an exacto pen knife, and alligator nose pliers. I pulled the grommet out of its socket, pulled the rubber tight and oh so carefully sliced a couple lines in it. Then I pushed wire through until i saw it in the cabin and the rest is easy.
To upgrade from my 10 gauge to 4 gauge I took the end of the 10 tied and electrical taped (very well but not too thick) and pulled it through from the grommet area.
You know 4 gauge wire is a bugger to work with. My standard wire strippers aren't big enough, but my tv cable strippers are just perfect!
To upgrade from my 10 gauge to 4 gauge I took the end of the 10 tied and electrical taped (very well but not too thick) and pulled it through from the grommet area.
You know 4 gauge wire is a bugger to work with. My standard wire strippers aren't big enough, but my tv cable strippers are just perfect!
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Joined: Apr 2001
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From: Austin
Thanks for all the info guys and gals.
I guess there is nothing to know about the car's computer when you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
It seems that the car's wiring run on the driver's side of the car and no wires are on the passenger side. Would it not be best to run the amp power cable along the driver's side (with all the other cables) and run the speaker/RCA/Remote power cable along the passenger side where there is no other cables in order to minimize interference?
How is everyone installing the glass fuse holder? I have seen some installs where people make a piece of plexiglass that fits the holes of the metal piece holding the battery in. They also drill 2 holes in the plexiglass that fit the fuse mount. This keeps the fuse holder up high and protected underneath. This can be seen on the battery on the right:
http://www.customsounds.com/suburban/b4.jpg
I was considering getting the new JVC tuner that plays MP3s. Does anyone have this and know any reason not to get it? It seems better than the other MP3 playering tuner except for maybe the new Alpine. I have not seen the new Alpine yet except for pictures.
Just some thoughts,
-matt
I guess there is nothing to know about the car's computer when you disconnect and reconnect the battery?
It seems that the car's wiring run on the driver's side of the car and no wires are on the passenger side. Would it not be best to run the amp power cable along the driver's side (with all the other cables) and run the speaker/RCA/Remote power cable along the passenger side where there is no other cables in order to minimize interference?
How is everyone installing the glass fuse holder? I have seen some installs where people make a piece of plexiglass that fits the holes of the metal piece holding the battery in. They also drill 2 holes in the plexiglass that fit the fuse mount. This keeps the fuse holder up high and protected underneath. This can be seen on the battery on the right:
http://www.customsounds.com/suburban/b4.jpg
I was considering getting the new JVC tuner that plays MP3s. Does anyone have this and know any reason not to get it? It seems better than the other MP3 playering tuner except for maybe the new Alpine. I have not seen the new Alpine yet except for pictures.
Just some thoughts,
-matt
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Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 0
From: Poconos
Power should stay on battery side, its just a simple rule of thumb. If you cross by speaker wires you're asking for trouble.
I had a Rockford Fosgate SE type fuse holder that taps directly on the battery. In the trunk i have a Rockford splitter with a fuse to each amp. Double protection, looks good too.
Its a real b*tch to find ANYTHING to crimp a 4 gauge wire to, but these products did the trick wonderfully!
I had a Rockford Fosgate SE type fuse holder that taps directly on the battery. In the trunk i have a Rockford splitter with a fuse to each amp. Double protection, looks good too.
Its a real b*tch to find ANYTHING to crimp a 4 gauge wire to, but these products did the trick wonderfully!
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