Building Ported sub box for JL 10w6V2
I'm planning on building my own sub enclosure for the tool well area of my S (for a JL 10@6V2) and I'm running into a possible roadblock in the design process. I've taken all the required volumes, port lengths, cross sectional areas, etc. recommended by JL and I've come up with a design that will fit in the tool well, and still provide the required tolerances, however, the majority of the port (slot port) will actually exit the enclosure. I've looked at a bunch of websites and none of them specifically state that this will affect the design, but wanted to get some feedback here. I've not seen anyone on this site w/ a ported box so was wondering if I'm wasting my time.
The port would obviously originate within the enclosure, but to get the recommended 30" length (JL recommends), about 12" will have to exit the enclosure in a duct. This duct would make a 90 degree bend once outside the enclosure and then fire into the open area under the soft top tray.
The other option is to utilize a round port, but again, the port would have to continue outside of the enclosure.
Darknight, please chime in as I know you build sub boxes for many on this site. Thanks all-
The port would obviously originate within the enclosure, but to get the recommended 30" length (JL recommends), about 12" will have to exit the enclosure in a duct. This duct would make a 90 degree bend once outside the enclosure and then fire into the open area under the soft top tray.
The other option is to utilize a round port, but again, the port would have to continue outside of the enclosure.
Darknight, please chime in as I know you build sub boxes for many on this site. Thanks all-
Give me till next weekend or so and I will have some pics of mine. My new set up will be using a 10w6. Are you glassing the trunk or MDF? The port design does not have to be the way JL shows, although that would be the most efficient. You can also run a sealed enclosure, that would produce a tighter hit vs a boomy hit.
Ports are there to tune the FQ... but you need to run the amp at the exact power ratings as well. You can adjust the port size. You could split it up into 2 ports or even three if your design can tolerate it.
Originally Posted by S2KinVA,Feb 23 2006, 10:42 AM
Give me till next weekend or so and I will have some pics of mine. My new set up will be using a 10w6. Are you glassing the trunk or MDF? The port design does not have to be the way JL shows, although that would be the most efficient. You can also run a sealed enclosure, that would produce a tighter hit vs a boomy hit.
Don't let the Guam flag in my sig throw you off, as my name implies, I'm from God's country! NoVA in the hiz-ouse!
Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC,Feb 24 2006, 07:28 AM
Why ported? In an s2000, you are asking for more work with a port. Try a sealed box, if you dont like it, then port it.
I had read several posts on here of insufficient bass output from sealed enclosures mounted in the trunk well....I think my amp and sub are powerful enough to overcome that concern, though. I'd like to see what S2KinVA's ported box looks like and get his feedback on sound quality before I decide on a sealed or ported box.
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Originally Posted by S2KinVA,Feb 27 2006, 08:44 AM
My build begins wednesday and I should have pics of the box by sunday or so...
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