Factory Component Speakers - Is there a Crossover?
Is there a crossover for the factory S2K3 component speakers?
We're putting in new speakers (CDT CL-61 components) and want to just send the amp signal out through the factory speaker wires which go through the doors, then terminate inside the doors, to the CDT x-over, and then to the mid and the tweet inside the door (in the factory locations).
However, we don't want to use the factory wire through the door if there is already some kind of x-over hooked up to it..
Anyone know??
Anyone have the CDT CL-61 components in their doors? Will a 3/4" MDF spacer make them fit (we measured and it looks like it, factory spacer is 5/8 and it seems like it is enough)?
We're putting in new speakers (CDT CL-61 components) and want to just send the amp signal out through the factory speaker wires which go through the doors, then terminate inside the doors, to the CDT x-over, and then to the mid and the tweet inside the door (in the factory locations).
However, we don't want to use the factory wire through the door if there is already some kind of x-over hooked up to it..
Anyone know??
Anyone have the CDT CL-61 components in their doors? Will a 3/4" MDF spacer make them fit (we measured and it looks like it, factory spacer is 5/8 and it seems like it is enough)?
First of all, there is NO FACTORY CROSSOVER.
Second, just use the stock honda spacer (cut out the basket part) and youll be fine. My Kappa Perfects are deeper than CDTs and fit with no issues.
Second, just use the stock honda spacer (cut out the basket part) and youll be fine. My Kappa Perfects are deeper than CDTs and fit with no issues.
Well, actually, your perfects have a 2 3/4" mounting depth, and the CDTs have a 2 7/8" mounting depth, a difference of 1/8", but you sound rather confident, so hopefully it will fit. I take it you have a little bit of room to spare (say 1/8")? 
If it hits the glass protector, we'll just add a 1/8" spacer or thicken up the dynamat or something.
Thanks!

If it hits the glass protector, we'll just add a 1/8" spacer or thicken up the dynamat or something.

Thanks!
Originally posted by NFRs2000NYC
First of all, there is NO FACTORY CROSSOVER.
First of all, there is NO FACTORY CROSSOVER.
Oh yeah, I should have clarified I meant in addition to the passive capacitor wired onto the + terminal of the tweet. I saw that right away, but that goes with the tweet so when the tweet comes out, it comes out.
So, if there's nothing else, that means the mid-range is getting full-range, not just mid-range?!? Can you say cancellation!!
Alright, well that's that. I guess we'll splice our x-over's input wire into the door panel's wire which leads into the cabin (and is currently already wired to the new amp).
Thanks!
So, if there's nothing else, that means the mid-range is getting full-range, not just mid-range?!? Can you say cancellation!!

Alright, well that's that. I guess we'll splice our x-over's input wire into the door panel's wire which leads into the cabin (and is currently already wired to the new amp).
Thanks!
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bah -- i didn't mean to fuss. i just didn't want anyone coming back and hammering you for it or thinking they could run w/o some sort of bass/treble steering...
and the mid range is getting a full range signal, but i seriously doubt how much actual treble that thing reproduces... i know my factory speakers had that little whizzer
, and they still couldn't do squat for cymbals.
and the mid range is getting a full range signal, but i seriously doubt how much actual treble that thing reproduces... i know my factory speakers had that little whizzer
, and they still couldn't do squat for cymbals.
Woah...and to answer your next question: Use weather-stripping with your spacers--between the door and the MDF and between the MDF and the mid
I knew your handle looked familiar
Don't you trust S2000-drivers with audio advice?
[Edit] And to answer the question after that, to reglue your cone locally, use fabric glue which you can find at Walmart...
If you can wait for an online store to ship, search for speaker repair glue on partsexpress.com
I knew your handle looked familiar

Don't you trust S2000-drivers with audio advice?

[Edit] And to answer the question after that, to reglue your cone locally, use fabric glue which you can find at Walmart...
If you can wait for an online store to ship, search for speaker repair glue on partsexpress.com
Woah, b0mbrman, what's going on!?
Yes, I do trust S2000 guys with audio advice, I am posting this for a friend who drives an S2K. He's getting the same CDTs I have in my Maxima. I'm only posting here to get S2K-specific stuff. Everything else, it's CAF.
So if there is no crossover, how are the stock speakers wired up? In parallel? In series? I'm guessing there is some kind of wire tap/splitter in the door somewhere which we will remove and replace with the CDT crossover.. sound about right?
Kevin
Yes, I do trust S2000 guys with audio advice, I am posting this for a friend who drives an S2K. He's getting the same CDTs I have in my Maxima. I'm only posting here to get S2K-specific stuff. Everything else, it's CAF.

So if there is no crossover, how are the stock speakers wired up? In parallel? In series? I'm guessing there is some kind of wire tap/splitter in the door somewhere which we will remove and replace with the CDT crossover.. sound about right?
Kevin


