I dont think you have to work at the circuit board level. A quick test would be to find the harness near the driver side kick panel, disconnected it, and then grab a multimeter (set in resistance) and start touching each prong while flipping the swtich on and off. If you find a pair that has 0 resistance and ??? resistance when flipping the switch then you just located the leads.

If not, then the wiring is some voodoo magic that will require you to go through the circuit board.

Your shop should be able to do this without any problems. If they dont, then they dont know what the h3ll they're doing.

 

I have an extra master drivers door switch here... I'll check it out. But I just had mine all open becuase I was doing some custom work to it and its pretty tricky

 

what i did was went to honda and bought defroster switch and wired my fogs to that. works nicely

 

Problem is I already have a defroster so I don't have a blank I can wire up.

 

Whatever magic you can work Darkknight would be much appreciated. How much would it cost to have you alter the master driver door switch so the window lock would operate the fogs?

 

So the shop went ahead and wired the fogs piggybacking the fogs to the fuel pump fuse. I didn't notice this until this weekend when the car wouldn't start and I tracked down the culprit. The wire piggybacking the fogs to the fuel pump makes it so the fuse won't slide all the way in. My question is, do the fogs need their own fuse? If not, is there a better fuse to piggyback them to. I don't want my engine to stall out because its not getting any fuel due to a loose fuse.

 

Sound pretty dodgy to me. They should have used a relay that switches power directly from the battery to the lights, and put an appropriate size fuse (probably 10A) as close to the battery as possible. Then used the voltage signal from tapping into something else (low-beam, parking lights, etc..) to trigger the relay.

Directly sourcing the power from another car component can be problematic. You may exceed the current draw on the fuse or wiring and possibly even damage the other component.

 

Thats what I thought. It is unplugged now until I get some time to really figure it out. The shop came with a number of solid references but I sure as hell would never use them again. This is just one of a number of things they botched on this job. I have to take the bumper back to have them repaint it next week.

 

Was this done by the body shop that's painting your bumper?