Getting bass into the cabin
Thanks for all the ideas, and compliments on my ride. I actually was thinking of exactly what John said:
"If you are looking for something "unique", you could mount a single 10" sub where the spare tire is now, firing back, then port the box to the vent behind the passenger seat. Would be VERY difficult to do this, because tuning the box would be a b*tch, and the working space is almost non-existent."
The other option would be to slot load the sub so that the bass still goes through the vents, but the box is sealed. Basically you build a sealed box, then use a flat piece of wood to "guide" the soundwaves through the vent (hard to explain). That seems like redundant work though, as I should be able to build a ported box into that area fairly easily. I have a friend who is an expert box builder who could help design it for me. Any idea how much airspace is up there? Also, I only saw that area once; is it contoured funky or is it pretty flat up there? Thanks again for all your help.
"If you are looking for something "unique", you could mount a single 10" sub where the spare tire is now, firing back, then port the box to the vent behind the passenger seat. Would be VERY difficult to do this, because tuning the box would be a b*tch, and the working space is almost non-existent."
The other option would be to slot load the sub so that the bass still goes through the vents, but the box is sealed. Basically you build a sealed box, then use a flat piece of wood to "guide" the soundwaves through the vent (hard to explain). That seems like redundant work though, as I should be able to build a ported box into that area fairly easily. I have a friend who is an expert box builder who could help design it for me. Any idea how much airspace is up there? Also, I only saw that area once; is it contoured funky or is it pretty flat up there? Thanks again for all your help.
Originally Posted by jdo009,Feb 8 2006, 11:35 AM
get a custom built box make to replace your center concole and but a 10 w7 in it! it will be crazy loud...i have some pics but can't psot them on here bc i don't gave a membership 

A sub box should be no bigger than what the manufacture states it as. Many of the newer subs out there work and are designed to work in smaller boxes. Take for example the Boston G5, or the Alphasonik 800 series work very well in .5-1.0 cubic foot sealed boxes. Those same subs working in a vented box would need 1.25-1.75 cubic feet or so.
I could make a box to fit inside the sparetire location under the convertable top tray. And then you can mount your amp somewhere else.
However mounting it in there really won't be much better than a properly design box and the proper amount of power, powering the sub, located inthe tool well.
Your talking about low fq here in highs that need to be directed.
I could make a box to fit inside the sparetire location under the convertable top tray. And then you can mount your amp somewhere else.
However mounting it in there really won't be much better than a properly design box and the proper amount of power, powering the sub, located inthe tool well.
Your talking about low fq here in highs that need to be directed.
I'm a big believer in going to the largest size recommended on a sealed box for power efficiency and low-end. Sure you lose a little "punch", but that's what midbass is for
My goal is to lose as little trunk space as possible, while still being different, so whatever allows me to do that I'm all about. I'll tear into it a bit this weekend and see if I can figure out what I'm going to do.
My goal is to lose as little trunk space as possible, while still being different, so whatever allows me to do that I'm all about. I'll tear into it a bit this weekend and see if I can figure out what I'm going to do.
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