Goodbye rattle in the trunk!!!
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
Originally posted by mas
I have the glass rear window and I've been driving without the rear deck for over a year now. No problems, there are edges along the rear deck (even after you remove it) that keep the top from going any further down than it's supposed to. It does not touch the the spare tire or anything else underneath. You don't really have to remove it permanently, you can modify the deck and put it back. My car's a lease so I didn't bother. Here's what I suggested to another owner a while ago:
"
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* Drill holes (1/4 inch or more dia) in the tray itself (instead of cutting out whole pieces which might compromise the rigidity of the tray) and you can make them into the shape of 2 circles like you have two 9 inch speakers installed behind them. If you do this neatly you don't need to put any grill or anything on top of it, otherwise just get some speaker cloth (whatever it's called) cut it into a circle and stick it there with some glue. I would not put speaker grills there.
* Remove all the foamy stuff for sound damping.
* Put some dynomat under the spare and to the left on the fuel tank. The idea is to reduce the noise since you don't have that factory sound damping material any more.
* Put the tray and that other piece back with some sort of thin rubber insulating on the sides. I'm not sure what to use for it, go look at a hardware store for this. I know they have some sheets of rubber that are used for some thing...
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......"
I have the glass rear window and I've been driving without the rear deck for over a year now. No problems, there are edges along the rear deck (even after you remove it) that keep the top from going any further down than it's supposed to. It does not touch the the spare tire or anything else underneath. You don't really have to remove it permanently, you can modify the deck and put it back. My car's a lease so I didn't bother. Here's what I suggested to another owner a while ago:
"
......
......
* Drill holes (1/4 inch or more dia) in the tray itself (instead of cutting out whole pieces which might compromise the rigidity of the tray) and you can make them into the shape of 2 circles like you have two 9 inch speakers installed behind them. If you do this neatly you don't need to put any grill or anything on top of it, otherwise just get some speaker cloth (whatever it's called) cut it into a circle and stick it there with some glue. I would not put speaker grills there.
* Remove all the foamy stuff for sound damping.
* Put some dynomat under the spare and to the left on the fuel tank. The idea is to reduce the noise since you don't have that factory sound damping material any more.
* Put the tray and that other piece back with some sort of thin rubber insulating on the sides. I'm not sure what to use for it, go look at a hardware store for this. I know they have some sheets of rubber that are used for some thing...
......
......"
do you mind referencing me to the other thread on this nature? i would apprecaite it.
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
[QUOTE]Originally posted by mas
[B]
IMO, if you don't have rattles, you don't need to worry about venting. You can try removing the sound damping foamy stuff from the area under the rear dash, it will help. Once you remove it, you'd see the vents behind the seats. So, there is already enough vent for the sound, specially the low frequencies.
[B]
IMO, if you don't have rattles, you don't need to worry about venting. You can try removing the sound damping foamy stuff from the area under the rear dash, it will help. Once you remove it, you'd see the vents behind the seats. So, there is already enough vent for the sound, specially the low frequencies.
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Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 2,068
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I read some of the e8a.44 thread.
I have the same focals, powered by a 100x2 PPI amp and a JL 12W3 (in the trunk well) powered by an RF amp (~ 300 watts).
There is a difference in how I installed the focals, though. I am using a series resistor to attenuate the tweeter a bit cause it was too bright. I was also using the resistor for the focals in my prelude. Even with the crossover set to -4db the sound was not balanced enough for my taste. With the tweeter turned down, the focal woofer can be heard much better and you don't have that mid-range gap in sound. I will replace the resistor with an L-pad in the long run but for now it works pretty good.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by PJK3
[B]
my only concern is if i pull down that insulation, will i suddenly acquire rattles in the top tray?
I have the same focals, powered by a 100x2 PPI amp and a JL 12W3 (in the trunk well) powered by an RF amp (~ 300 watts).
There is a difference in how I installed the focals, though. I am using a series resistor to attenuate the tweeter a bit cause it was too bright. I was also using the resistor for the focals in my prelude. Even with the crossover set to -4db the sound was not balanced enough for my taste. With the tweeter turned down, the focal woofer can be heard much better and you don't have that mid-range gap in sound. I will replace the resistor with an L-pad in the long run but for now it works pretty good.
[QUOTE]Originally posted by PJK3
[B]
my only concern is if i pull down that insulation, will i suddenly acquire rattles in the top tray?
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 7,584
Likes: 1
From: Baton Rouge, LA
[QUOTE]Originally posted by mas
[B]I read some of the e8a.44 thread.
I have the same focals, powered by a 100x2 PPI amp and a JL 12W3 (in the trunk well) powered by an RF amp (~ 300 watts).
There is a difference in how I installed the focals, though. I am using a series resistor to attenuate the tweeter a bit cause it was too bright. I was also using the resistor for the focals in my prelude. Even with the crossover set to -4db the sound was not balanced enough for my taste. With the tweeter turned down, the focal woofer can be heard much better and you don't have that mid-range gap in sound. I will replace the resistor with an L-pad in the long run but for now it works pretty good.
[B]I read some of the e8a.44 thread.
I have the same focals, powered by a 100x2 PPI amp and a JL 12W3 (in the trunk well) powered by an RF amp (~ 300 watts).
There is a difference in how I installed the focals, though. I am using a series resistor to attenuate the tweeter a bit cause it was too bright. I was also using the resistor for the focals in my prelude. Even with the crossover set to -4db the sound was not balanced enough for my taste. With the tweeter turned down, the focal woofer can be heard much better and you don't have that mid-range gap in sound. I will replace the resistor with an L-pad in the long run but for now it works pretty good.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 16,673
Likes: 1
From: Waterloo
Removing this tray made a large difference.
It solved 70% of my rattles and the bass is 200% better. That tray blocked alot of the SPL in the trunk. With this tray gone it almost acts as a hatch back in a sense.
I'll modify it with vents and cloth for the summer. As for now since it's winter my top will be up so ill leave it out.
It solved 70% of my rattles and the bass is 200% better. That tray blocked alot of the SPL in the trunk. With this tray gone it almost acts as a hatch back in a sense.
I'll modify it with vents and cloth for the summer. As for now since it's winter my top will be up so ill leave it out.
Banned
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 16,673
Likes: 1
From: Waterloo
I tried putting my top down today without this tray. I didn't see it hitting anything. I think I will just stretch some black speaker grill material across this area just to cover it up so you can't see in through the window into my trunk area.
Plus you can see my amps from the window (although it is tinted) I'd rather have it hidden.
Plus you can see my amps from the window (although it is tinted) I'd rather have it hidden.