Ground point in trunk?
The available bolts in the spare tire area are a tad too far to be useful for me, so I picked up another grounding mount (http://www.cardomain.com/item/STRGT0). My question though is would the location highlighted in the red box below be an acceptable mounting point for this? The paint would be ground down obivously.

(Original image credits to DarkKnight1999)

(Original image credits to DarkKnight1999)
To start, I have 2 amplifiers going in the spare tire area. While the length of the right amplifler would reach fine (~12" length), I'd be looking at around 21" to reach the closer of the two bolts with the left amplifer. In addition to those 2 amplifiers, I have a 3rd smaller amp going on a vertical panel to the left of the spare tire area (plus the relay, fans, etc), I was hoping to get something that was more centralized to ensure that all ground cables were under 18" (with most under 12").
FWIW... I have a Stinger distro block that I'm bringing all of the ground points to a central point that will be grounded with 1/0 awg to match the main power run into to the trunk.
FWIW... I have a Stinger distro block that I'm bringing all of the ground points to a central point that will be grounded with 1/0 awg to match the main power run into to the trunk.
Originally Posted by magikcow,Sep 13 2005, 11:49 AM
That's probaly ok. Just ground down to sheet metal and check what's on the back of that sheet metal. if nothing drill away.
I did check the service manual for fuel related components, and they all appear to be left of there, but I was hoping someone might have some real world experience with what was behind there.
Oh ok... There are the same bolts on the otherside of the trunk. Course you've most likely seen those 
You don't need to bring them together, you can but you don't have to. But it sounds like you've got it undercontrol so I'll shutup

You don't need to bring them together, you can but you don't have to. But it sounds like you've got it undercontrol so I'll shutup
Yup, seen those as well. ;-)
The problem really arose due to the amplifier placement, and the direction the wiring puts the left amplifier right near the center of the trunk itself.
Oh the joy of trying to work in such a small space. :-D One of these days I'll finally get this all finished. I did the HU, separates in the doors, 1 amplifier and all primary wiring about 3 months back and started to finish out the subs, rear speakers, additional amplifiers & changer this time around about 2 weeks ago.
The problem really arose due to the amplifier placement, and the direction the wiring puts the left amplifier right near the center of the trunk itself.
Oh the joy of trying to work in such a small space. :-D One of these days I'll finally get this all finished. I did the HU, separates in the doors, 1 amplifier and all primary wiring about 3 months back and started to finish out the subs, rear speakers, additional amplifiers & changer this time around about 2 weeks ago.
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Follow-up for archive...
The spot I asked about above worked fine, though it was a tight fit with the mount I was using. I traced the outline of the mount with a sharpie & removed all paint from any area within the mount.
For the screw holes I ended up doing a shallow #6 bit tap (1/2" bit exposure) using a countersink bit to prevent hitting anything that might be under the panel. I slid one of the 3 mount points under the bar (leaving it without a screw) and put #6 1/2" metal screws in the other 2.
Worked like a charm. :-)
The spot I asked about above worked fine, though it was a tight fit with the mount I was using. I traced the outline of the mount with a sharpie & removed all paint from any area within the mount.
For the screw holes I ended up doing a shallow #6 bit tap (1/2" bit exposure) using a countersink bit to prevent hitting anything that might be under the panel. I slid one of the 3 mount points under the bar (leaving it without a screw) and put #6 1/2" metal screws in the other 2.
Worked like a charm. :-)
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