Help with Static in system?
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Originally Posted by PJK3,Feb 8 2006, 08:02 PM
yes -- YOU MUST GROUND THE HU! that would account for most of it (which honestly, i think i predicted. 
)
and as John mentioned it would be the black wire on the HU harness. at a minimum, solder or splice it to the OEM ground or preferably ground it on a solid unpainted bolt nearby.
JL amps are 1.5 ohms stable -- in stereo. just about any amp when bridged mono is stable at double the stereo number. so 1.5 ohm stable in stereo = 3 ohm stable in mono. if you take two 4 ohm speakers and put them in parallel - that's 2 ohms, which won't be stable in mono on the JL. don't worry, i doubt you did damage, and it's a VERY common misconception.
from the JL website: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=253
) and as John mentioned it would be the black wire on the HU harness. at a minimum, solder or splice it to the OEM ground or preferably ground it on a solid unpainted bolt nearby.
JL amps are 1.5 ohms stable -- in stereo. just about any amp when bridged mono is stable at double the stereo number. so 1.5 ohm stable in stereo = 3 ohm stable in mono. if you take two 4 ohm speakers and put them in parallel - that's 2 ohms, which won't be stable in mono on the JL. don't worry, i doubt you did damage, and it's a VERY common misconception.
from the JL website: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=253
as for the amp, I have not bridged it. The right channel isn't working so I just plugged in both speakers in parallel to the left channel. So in essence I'm running 2 ohm mono @ 150 Watts... is that safe for the Amp? thanks all!
Also, if I have a light blub, where do I connect the wires to the light blub? The light blub will be used as a resistor for charging my capacitors, but I don't know where the "terminals" on the light blub are... (never really thought about it)... thanks and I'll post pictures of how the install looks... it's pretty craptastic, but it sounds better...
the box I'm currently using is only temporary... will get new box later when I have more $$$ saved up... (current box is only 0.75 cu'ft instead of 1.25) Guy at HiFi Buys said that I just wouldn't get as much "bass" out of it as I could be... is there anything else that'd be affected by a smaller box? thanks again!
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
that should be a safe load for the amp... 2 ohms to 1 channel is above the 1.5 minimum for a stereo load.
well, i haven't had a lot of experience in dealing w/ caps. so, i may not be the best person to ask. but regarding the terminals on a light bulb? the outer screw area and the very tip are the 2 different terminals. at least as i recall.
regarding the smaller box? you will loose some efficiency out of the sub, and the bass is likely to be 'tighter'. you may also loose some output at the lowest bass notes.
if i were you, i'd buy some polyfill at Wallyworld for a few bucks, pop open the box. fluff up the polyfill and loosely pack it in. you may not need the entire bag, just enough to where the whole enclosure is full of the fluffed polyfill.
what the polyfill does is slow down (dampen) the sound waves in the enclosure, making it perform like the enclosure is larger than it really is.
(just to clarify, the fluffed polyfill should be airy and readily translucent. much looser than you'd find in a pillow. )
well, i haven't had a lot of experience in dealing w/ caps. so, i may not be the best person to ask. but regarding the terminals on a light bulb? the outer screw area and the very tip are the 2 different terminals. at least as i recall.
regarding the smaller box? you will loose some efficiency out of the sub, and the bass is likely to be 'tighter'. you may also loose some output at the lowest bass notes.
if i were you, i'd buy some polyfill at Wallyworld for a few bucks, pop open the box. fluff up the polyfill and loosely pack it in. you may not need the entire bag, just enough to where the whole enclosure is full of the fluffed polyfill.
what the polyfill does is slow down (dampen) the sound waves in the enclosure, making it perform like the enclosure is larger than it really is.
(just to clarify, the fluffed polyfill should be airy and readily translucent. much looser than you'd find in a pillow. )
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yeah... so I got the system up and running with a ghetto box... I'll get a fiberglass one next month when I have enough saved up..
Thanks everyone for the much needed help!!
I have yet to ground my HU, but I will give a few info points on my system:
1) because of the smaller box, the sub can not be pushed to full excursion and am running around 250-300 watts to the sub instead of the 400-500.
2) HU is still not grounded... I will be searching in the back to see if there is a bolt to the frame somewhere I can ground it. Anyone know of a convenient location for this?
3) The box really sux... REALLY sux... too embarassed to put up pictures of it... I'll post pictures when I get the good box...
4) The caps were already charged... strange...
and poly fill will go into the fiberglass box. Thanks for the Help Guys!!
Thanks everyone for the much needed help!!
I have yet to ground my HU, but I will give a few info points on my system:
1) because of the smaller box, the sub can not be pushed to full excursion and am running around 250-300 watts to the sub instead of the 400-500.
2) HU is still not grounded... I will be searching in the back to see if there is a bolt to the frame somewhere I can ground it. Anyone know of a convenient location for this?
3) The box really sux... REALLY sux... too embarassed to put up pictures of it... I'll post pictures when I get the good box...
4) The caps were already charged... strange...
and poly fill will go into the fiberglass box. Thanks for the Help Guys!!
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From: Baton Rouge, LA
1. actually, smaller box (for sealed boxes) generally means higher power handling vs a bigger box (less power handling)
2. once you get the radio door off, there are some rather nice obvious ground points.
5. good to hear.
2. once you get the radio door off, there are some rather nice obvious ground points.
5. good to hear.
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