I'm thinking of doing a setup much like yours. I have the K2Ps, the PDX-4.150, however, I'm confused about subs. I see that the 10w6 sub you have has dual 4ohm voice coils. The way I understand how this stuff works is that this means that the PDX is able to bridge the 3/4 channels alone at a stable 2ohms.

I'm also looking at a dual 4ohm sub (the alphasonik PSW8104j), but am concerned about the PDX being able to handle this. I would go ahead and get the dual 2 ohm version of the alpha sub, but I need to wait 4 weeks for that one.

So you think I would be OK with the 4ohm dual voice coil sub? BTW, what ohm load ends up being given to your K2Ps in your setup, 2 or 4?

Thanks, Derek

 

The Focals are DEFINITELY 4 ohm, why would it be anything else? (all car audio speakers are going to be 4 ohms).

The only reason the amp would see something else is if you are wiring more than 1 speaker together or a dual coil (i.e. subwoofer)

Yes the PDX amp is perfectly fine with the dual 6 ohm coils wired in parallel to get 3 ohms mono.

I've driven this car on long road trips and no overheating or clipping issues so you should be fine.


rick

 

do you have any pictures of what you're tlaking about? i went out the garage to try to picture it. but in my head i see the thing just being able to fall directly into the trunk... how would you even get your stuff if it rolled to gas tank side for example?

 

The best way to imagine this is:

I have built a small tray over the spare tire section that serves double duty as support for the glass top when it's retracted.

The other side where the amp is located I built a similiar rail around the amp that gives the amp cooling and also supports the glass top on that side.

You can easily reach over the seat roll hoops to the trunk area if need be to get a sweatshirt, etc....


rick

 

Everything you have done looks fantastic. Just a word of caution though. I used to run the PDX4.150 and PDX1000.1 in my S. Had them flush mounted into each side of the trunk. the 4.150 no matter what head unit I had or what signal cables I used always had a trace of noise in it. I spoke with several installers and they agreed that every install they had done with the Class D topology of this amp, it always presented noise in the system to a degree, and gets worse over time. My rear channel eventually failed. My PDX1000.1 melted itself twice, the fuses and surrounding plastic area completely fused together without blowing the fuses. My wiring and install was not in question, and turned out to be a poor design on the PCB according to Alpine support. Newer models supposedly had this fixed, but I gave up on both amps and installed a pair of Phoenix Gold ti600.2's and life is good again. Not trying to rain on your parade, I really liked the size of the amps but it turned out the trade off's weren't worth it for me. That and I have the worst luck in the world. In conclusion, I am simply trying to help you in advance when and if problems start to arise, you'll have some knowledge on these little babies.

 

just read the rest of the thread and thought I would add this: when I had finally given up on the 4.150, I ran the front channel bridged 2 ohm mono to a Boston G2 and it never shut off and ran for hours at a time.

And there are component speakers out there in 2 ohm flavor, not just 4 ohm.

 

Nice setup. I'm interested in getting a related amp, the MRP-F250, and putting it in the same spot.

Couple questions:

1. Is it required to bolt the amp to a rack and then put the rack in the space? Or could I secure it above the gas tank in a less permanent fashion, like with zip ties or that industrial velcro? I realize it needs to be immobile in a crash, but really, how far is this thing going to move, seeing as it is jammed in there pretty tight? I'm not interested in making it "pretty" since it will be invisible, I just want it to be safe and not move around too much.

2. Any ventilation problems? I don't anticipate pushing it too hard too often, and the climate in Chicago isn't exactly Death Valley like, but I don't want to burn up the amp, either.

 

Chris Stack: If you leave your rear shelf in place then I guess you could just "wedge" it in there but that is just not how I install things into my car plus you'll suffocate the amp with no cooling area.....

I lived in Chicago (midwest) for 20+ years and I can tell you it' gets SUPER HOT there in the summer not to mention humidity so not sure what part you live in...hahaha

I would just build a small amp rack and do it right.........


g'luck,
rick

 

Do you think this amp is small enough to fit under the passenger seat?